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The Good, the Bad and the Yummy

January 18, 2012 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

Why don’t you rate wines?
I have been asked several times why when I’m reviewing or writing about wines, why I don’t offer them a score or a numerical rating. Aside from not being a really efficient numbers person – maths has never been my strong suit – I don’t score wines because I want to make wine accessible, relatable and easier to appreciate.

For me, wine is subjective. Every wine is different, and so is every person and their preferences and tastes. Our collective experiences in life are also different, this means that in the grand evolution of our wine tasting palates, some people are old and wise whilst others are naive and frivolous – irrespective of our physical age.

Some of us never change… Our hair, our clothes… our wine. This is why there is a still strong market for sweet fizz and why they still make Moselle. It also explains why some people still get a perm and kept their denim jackets in case they come back in fashion! (heads up they are everywhere in the USA so they might be back next season!)

Fashion and fads
Everybody and I mean everybody must be drinking Sauvignon Blanc right now. It is so in fashion right now. The Sauvignon Blanc aisle at Liquorland is strangely the centre of the bottleshop universe. But why? With all their wines, the range is still limited and there are only select few I would consider purchasing. I asked Hunter Valley legend Karl Stockhausen about his opinion on fads and trendy wines for my last article. He said generally consumers flock to obvious characters in wines. What I find annoying (cloying green passionfruit) in Sauvignon Blanc, the normal everyday consumer recognises as delightfully obvious. The same went for over oaked Chardonnay. Over done, and overly obvious.

Karl also told me a story about a more recent line up of winemakers and Sauvignon Blancs for a wine magazine. After tasting all of these wines, though technically well made, none of the experienced palates of these winemakers actually personally liked any of the Sauvignon Blancs. Makes you think doesn’t it?
Biggest selling variety right now and the people making it don’t even like to drink it? It reaffirms everyone’s different and this way you and I never have to share!

Old faithful
I like to go home and drink Chardonnay but that doesn’t mean I don’t have the technical skill to evaluate and appreciate how well made or technically correct a Cabernet Franc, or Chenin Blanc is. It just means that when I’m at home in the privacy of my living room, the first thing that takes my fancy is a good old Chardonnay!

On our recent trip to the USA all we really drank was Chardonnay! Flicking through our photo album has been like, “this is us in San Francisco (drinking Chardonnay), oh and here we are in Vegas (that was a lovely Chardonnay)…check out the wonderful Chardonnay we bought in New York!”

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I find Chardonnay to be complimentary to whatever choose to burn for dinner, and it’s a great match with tacky reality television. The irony is I have always preached the importance and value of wine matching to food in the formal arena, but even I take the low fuss road and enjoy what is in the fridge. Everything goes with Chardonnay!

My Chardonnay doesn’t judge me or my remote control in my Pajamas, and I don’t score or rate how perfect or imperfect my Chardonnay is. We have a great thing going on.

Surely a wine covered in golds is the best….
When you see a wine rated a certain number of points or boasting various stickers of golds or medals, there are certain things that that wine had to be scored upon that appeal to a wine judge. First, usually the wine is submitted to the writer or the wine show. Mostly, wine shows charge the winery to submit per wine, per category of style they wish to enter. It can be a costly process. They give the wine a number, and rate colour, clarity, aroma, palate, length of palate, acid balance, fruit, varietal definition and style against benchmarks and wine faults.

The score is added up and all scores are assessed and scaled against gold silver and bronze. The scores will determine how many medals are given in that category. They could all be bronze. Or none could rank high enough for a medal at all. If there are multiple golds, points determine a top gold and if the wine is deemed spectacular enough, a trophy is awarded. Really, it’s the trophies you want. Most wineries have a filing cabinet full of bronzes and silvers and this is why it’s not overly exciting to see the shiny sticker on the bottle. And trust me, it’s not exciting to have to be the person who sticks those on straight on every bottle. I did that on a labeling line through high school!

Just because James Halliday or the Royal Hobart Wine Show says its a gold, 5 star or a 95 point wine doesn’t mean you’ll even like it. It comes back to personal preferences and palate experience. I know a wine, a Hunter Semillon, that kept winning the trophy at various shows. Technically brilliant, faultlessly interesting. Great acidity, hints of minerality, good length of palate, flawlessly developing honeyed characters and mellowing off as bottle age took hold. The general consumer would taste it and say “very tart” and pull a face. They weren’t talking about me! Their palates were simply not ready for it, nor should they have to wait for the right food (delicious with the right food). The average joe would have rated this multiple trophy winner 1/5.

Back to me
So if I rated or scored a wine, should it be because I liked it personally, or should it be because it was faultlessly made or technically correct, or both? Neither. Just because the experts say its good doesn’t mean you’ll like it. And just because you like it doesn’t mean it’s a well made wine. But who really cares as long as you like it (and it’s Australian grown and made! No more NZ rubbish!)

You can’t even take my professional opinion seriously anymore because you know I went half way across the world and had my Chardonnay Tour, then came home and had some more! I suggest everyone read up on wine, sample as many different wines and styles and regions as possible until you find something you love. And I promise I do venture away to other styles and varieties occasionally!

The moral of this story is a “good glass of wine” doesn’t necessarily mean the same thing as a “glass of good wine”. But ultimately, I enjoy both and so should you!

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The Ben Ean Still: for Breathe Magazine

December 13, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

The Ben Ean Still – 2011 Heritage Award winner ….

Hunter Valley Living Legend Karl Stockhausen shares the history & stories of this wonderful Hunter Valley icon with Rhiannon Stevens.

Each year in the Hunter Valley, we celebrate and acknowledge excellence with our Wine Industry Awards and induction of our Hunter Valley Legends. In 2011, the Hunter Valley Heritage Award was presented to the Ben Ean Winery Old Still House.

Despite being formally recognised as having integral historical importance to our region, little is known as to the origins of the Still at Lindemans Ben Ean. It is believed the Still was already in place when the Ben Ean property on McDonalds Road Pokolbin was purchased from John McDonald by Dr Henry Lindeman in 1912. Who better to ask about this icon than the amazing Hunter Valley Legend – Karl Stockhausen?

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So what is a Still?
A still is a permanent apparatus used to heat and then cool liquids to condense and capture vapours. The Ben Ean Still is a simple Pot Still, with a single chamber heated by a steam boiler piped from the Ben Ean Winery.

The purpose of the Ben Ean Still was to collect alcohol and produce Brandy. Pot Stills only give one condensation due to having one pot. The first distillation results in low concentrations and the process is repeated to get higher concentrations. When Karl had used the still in the early 1960′s the first distillation would succeed, however secondary distillations would frustratingly lose alcohol in the process. As the Still is made of copper, the natural properties of Copper remove sulfur from the alcohol. In doing so, the metal eventually corrodes. The carry-over to the condenser column metals were so eroded that alcohol escaped. A Customs Officer informed Karl that they may have to pay duty on the alcohol losses and Lindemans Head Office quickly replaced them with new ones! The Pot itself and the Condenser are of the original Still.

When Karl Stockhausen first arrived at Ben Ean in 1955 there were large stores of Brandy from the Still. Karl recalls being appointed Winemaker and Manager of Lindemans in 1959, and using the Still to recover losses from left over grapes after pressing, through distillation. The labour intensive process was fraught with losses and by the early 1960′s, Karl had convinced his directors to retire the Still. By 1964 the Still was no longer in use and Karl could invest his passions into making Hunter River Riesling (Semillon).

Karl is cautious to assume the Brandy from the Still was used to fortify wines such as Port or Muscat styles. This is because it would have been difficult to produce high concentrations of alcohol (Ethanol) used in Fortified Wines. In order for this, the Still would have required a rectifying column which separates the different alcohols respective of their different boiling points. This means that the Still at Ben Ean was likely there to satisfy a personal preference for Brandy consumption.

Is it a taste for Brandy which has paved the way for Australian wine?
Until the 1960′s the majority of Australian wine on the market was fortified in the style of Port or Sherry. Perhaps it was the shortage of beer and spirits during the second world war which encouraged the consumption of fortified and table wines. Alternatively the appeal of a sweet, rich wine with brandied complexities to an early wine drinker may have begun the evolution of Australian palates. A preference to Brandy may have lead to a taste for fortified wines, which evolved into curiosity for table wines.

A growth in Australian wine sales from 1960 owes to greater popularity in styles such as the semi-sweet Ben Ean Moselle, enjoyed characteristically of the era with an Alpine Lite! Karl Stockhausen blushes as he tells this iconic wine of the 60′s wine boom was first made at Ben Ean in 1956, but was not yet what the market wanted. Later, the market became enamoured by the fruit friendly forwardness of the Ben Ean Moselle. Many a wine drinker owe their interest and evolution of their own palates to the entry-level Ben Ean Moselle, which became the biggest selling white wine for over a decade.

In the late 1960′s dry red wine sales were greater than whites. Karl recalls 1965 Vintage as peculiarly dry and hot whilst still producing an unusually large crop. This meant all open fermenters were full, leaving none to take the quickly ripening fruit. They managed to leave off harvesting the Shiraz it until well into March. When they finally harvested, the sugar content in the fruit was exponentially high, leading to high alcohol percentages and worried Winemakers. At the end of Vintage, Karl explains the Lindemans directors came to the Hunter Valley to taste the wines. “They were the best range of Hunter Reds they had ever seen”. Top shelf styles, Karl describes as “fabulous wines” all still revered today. Karl proudly tells me that recently a bottle from 1965 broke the record, selling for almost $2000.

Other influential styles that Karl Stockhausen has been involved with include the iconic Hunter River Riesling, which was an alias for one of the three Semillon styles he produced at Lindemans. The next trend, for shoulder pads and oaked Chardonnay emerged in the 80′s.

But what is it about these wine styles that give them decade long demand? Karl’s theory rests on The Obvious. Literally. Karl explains, “It was not the flavour of Chardonnay but the obvious oak that made it popular. Sauvignon Blanc, although opposing in style also carries obviousness of character.” Karl explains that wine drinkers are searching for characters they can recognise in their wines. For fortified wines it was the Brandy base, Moselle was sweet supple fruit, Chardonnay was buttery vanillin oak. For Sauvignon Blanc it’s about gooseberries, crispness and green notes. But it’s more than often too hot to grow this variety in the Hunter Valley. McGuigan Wines have now announced their market friendly home grown competitor, affectionately named The Semillon Blanc, using our Hunter Valley reliable and faithful staple, Semillon. Karl describes this wine as a “modern late picked version of Semillon, with full varietal flavour up front, something that lends well to current palates”.

So what for the future, as we all become more familiar with the wine world and more informed about personal preferences of style. What wines will be fashionable? I am a product of the 1980′s and can’t go past a good Chardonnay, but I’ve always said drink what you like. (That way no one has to share!)

Take the opportunity to go back to our roots and enjoy the Hunter Valley’s heritage Ben Ean Still for a wine tasting at Lindemans.

Cheers!

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Summer 2011-12, Breathe Magazine – Issue 31, Summer 2011.

So from here I say bon voyage, as we Jetset across the world for an amazing trip of a lifetime!

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Something Fishy: Breathe Magazine Edition

October 5, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

Breathe Magazine requested for me to rewrite my original “Something Fishy” article for their Hunter Valley Wine Show edition.

Something fishy… What’s the Story of Fish in Wine?

I often get asked why there are warnings on wine labels pertaining to fish, milk and egg products. Aren’t the basic ingredients of wine just grapes and yeast? Sometimes we need a little help to optimise our basic ingredients.

In the Fermentation process, yeast converts the grape sugars (glucose and fructose) into alcohol (and carbon dioxide). Yeast can be found naturally on the skins of the grapes, or it can be introduced. The type of yeast can also affect the flavour, aroma, texture and body of the final wine.

The winemaker may also choose to put the wine through secondary fermentation. Malolactic Fermentation (or Malo for short – pronounced “May-Low”) would usually occur after the primary ferment. During Malo, Lactic Acid Bacteria get busy converting Malic acid from the grapes into Lactic acid in the wine. Lactic acid is not as sharp and acidic to taste, resulting in a wine that has a smoother mouth feel. Malo can result in a buttery, creamy Chardonnay, but if not done skilfully can end up causing faults in the wine.

It is a sad ending for the yeast as after primary ferment, it dies. Unfortunately, the yeast is a casualty of our consumption. Making matters worse, all the residual and dead yeast cells or “lees” are now floating around in our wine. There may also be natural proteins, bacteria and other particles suspended in the wine. I don’t like “floaties” in my Shiraz or Chardonnay. What is the solution to this problem?

Winemakers use a fining agent to flocculate at various stages during wine production, ensuring your Hunter Valley Semillon is crystal clear. Clarity, brightness and transparency are important for both the wine judge, and us wine drinkers.

Flocculation: [verb] forced removal of sediment from a liquid through addition of a flocculating agent. Gravity controlled flocculation precipitates solids within a liquid.

Now for the science lesson: as the diagram suggests, the fining agent is added to the top of the tank, weighs down on the dead yeast cells (and other “floaties”) and drags everything to the bottom of the tank where it can be siphoned off.

Fining agents can improve haze, phenolics, astringency, colour, flavour and even off-odour in wine. Therefore, fining is a process which results in a wine created with finesse, which may also have attractive qualities not present in unfined wine.

Stabilisation can be used to prevent wine faults caused by environmental changes to temperature, humidity and movement. Unstable wines can be subject to haze, tartrates and premature ageing. For example, Cold stabilisation encourages liquid tartaric acid to solidify. “Wine Diamonds” (tartrate crystals) form when the wine is very cold. They develop in small crystals or long shards and can be removed prior to bottling. Sometimes these form in the finished bottle – they may look like glass but are completely harmless.

So where does fish come into this? Not to worry – winemakers are certainly not throwing seafood medley into the tank!

Below are some common fining agents:

Isinglass (pronounced eye-sin-glass) is a gelatin derived from the air bladder of a fish – especially and traditionally the sturgeon. Isinglass is expensive, delicate, will not strip flavour and often used with white wines.

Gelatin has been used to fine wine since Roman civilisation. It can remove harsh tannins, bitter flavours, and improve astringency.

Casein. Casein is an active protein in skim milk or powdered skim milk. It can be used to nullify astringency and bitterness in white wines, sometimes lightening the colour.

PVPP or polyvinyl-polypyrrolidone is a synthetic polymer chain that behaves like a natural protein.

Albumin is the fining agent relating to eggs. Only the whites are used (sometimes powdered) – so never sunny side up! This is usually reserved for red wines and believe it or not it’s only 1-2 egg whites for 100 Litres of wine.

There are natural proteins present in grapes that may cause a cloudy haze if the wine is subject to higher temperatures. Bentonite is a naturally occurring clay or mineral derivative that stabilises the wine, preventing cloudy protein haze in the wine.

Did you know? Bulls blood was commonly used as a fining agent in many European countries including France, until 1997 when the EU banned this practice as a measure to curb Mad Cow’s Disease.

If I’m allergic to seafood do I have to avoid wine?

No. Not even with wines fined with Isinglass. The protein in fish which commonly causes allergic reactions is called parvalbumin. It’s not normally found in isinglass.

Modern manufacture of isinglass ensures no residual parvalbumin remains. The European Food Safety Commission led the way and granted isinglass exemption from allergen labelling laws. In 2009, Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) also granted food labelling exemption for isinglass in beer and wine. Even if trace parvalbumin snuck into the wine with the isinglass, it would settle with the isinglass when flocculated and be removed in the filtration process.

This doesn’t sound kosher!

Well technically, isinglass that is derived from a sturgeon isn’t. However isinglass from a kosher fish is. Other un-kosher fining agents include gelatin, casein.

I’m a vegetarian /vegan?

A lot of wines on the market are still unfined or use vegetarian-friendly fining agents. Synthetic fining agents are increasingly popular, and Bentonite is one of the most common fining agents. It is important to consider that some wines and many beers may not be suitable.

Vegans can look for wines that boast “unfined” or “unfiltered” or Bentontite/clay. Some wineries are cleverly labelling for vegetarian and vegan consumption determined by their winemaking processes. Just because some wines are labelled as vegetarian-friendly doesn’t mean that the wines that don’t specify aren’t already suitable for vegetarians or vegans. Continue enjoying Hunter Valley wines and if you are concerned – read the label and ask the friendly folks at the winery.

Testing has shown that there is limited capacity for wines to absorb fining agents and when they have been detected, only in negligent proportions. Fining is considered more natural and delicate a process than filtration which can rapidly strip a wine of colour and flavour. It’s also an important part of traditional winemaking practice that Australian winemakers have inherited from our old world wine countries.

So now you know more about the processes behind some of our proud award winning wines– celebrate quality Hunter Valley wines and appreciate the complexity of the science and skill it took to produce them.

Cheers to that!

 

This article was published in Breathe Magazine – Issue 30, Spring 2011  “Hunter Valley Wine Show edition” – see link.

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Too many Cooks spoil the broth? Not at Cooks Lot

September 26, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

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Cooks Lot is one of those under-rated classic labels, unique to country New South Wales. A smaller scaled family operation, Cooks Lot wines are indicative of their origins whilst showing unique character and flair that only comes from small production and passionate wine making.

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If you haven’t yet visited Mudgee you’re overdue and I do not tolerate tardiness! Mudgee is one of the best kept secrets of the West, to which we owe Australia’s first Chardonnay plantings (hail Mary!) and some of the best robust reds on this side of the border! Neighbouring Orange produces some of Australia’s finest Cool Climate, delicate styled and fashionable wines.

Cooks Lot capitalises on the best of both of these worlds and produces some stealthy, straight forward and first class Australian wines. Each wine I’ve poured under the Cooks Lot label has been individually expressive and full of personality. It is often with the smaller wineries that you find the bigger rewards and the friendlier faces. Time to make the pilgrimage to Mudgee….


2009 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
With Australian wines like this, why do we bother with New Zealand? A bright straw colour, this Sauvignon Blanc has a delicate finesse. It’s gentle, restrained and refined; yet fresh, ripe and youthful. Lively tropical notes such as Kiwi and Pineapple start at the front of the palate and mellow into clean, crisp, zesty citrus. This ripe lemony acidity is a lovely way to balance the palate, with the nice surprise of a gentle tartaric buzz. With more aeration, the typical grassy undertones peep through.

A perfect wine for a hot afternoon, some fresh prawns and close friends on the verandah. Alternatively I think this Sauvignon Blanc is just yearning for Asian flavours, could definitely handle the heat and would be ideal paired with Thai. Yum!

2010 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 11.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Quite a lifted bouquet, fresh fruit fills the air as I fill my glass. Pineapple on the nose- as if i was chopping it fresh- skin and all. The palate is lean with acidity, and crispness develops into fresh squeezed, pink lemonade. As per varietal definition, an underlying green character lingers with slight herbaceousness, reminding me of tomato leaf.

2011 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 12.1% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lighter colour than previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc has the pleasant juicy aroma of peeling an orange, down to the pith. The greenness reminds me of morning dew on fresh cut grass, but this develops into green bananas. From here, kiwi fruit envelopes the palate, leaving a tropical mouth feel.

2008 Mudgee Riesling – 11.3% al/vol RRP $19.99
Straw coloured with lime hues, this is a Riesling showing good depth. It starts off friendly and mellow, good varietal character, soft steely tones and just when you think you can trust it- a fresh, zesty acidity sweeps the palate. It is this fine acidity which makes it a clean and interesting wine. Kiwi fruit and fresh passionfruit develop into limes, and tart citrus – like tangerines. The bouquet is delicate with blossoms. A wine to cellar for a few more years to continue the mystery of mellow tones and surprising high notes.

2010 Mudgee Riesling – 12% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lovely surprise as this is different from it’s 2008 cousin. A more aromatic wine with greater fruit intensity, is wine shows intense passionfruit characters and green pear on the palate, with a zesty citrus finish. The aroma is playful with spectacular purple passionfruit flowers and a candied toffee apple. Having tasted this wine I’m craving a salad of figs, walnuts and blue cheese. The fullness of the palate and clean fruit could take this just nicely!

2011 Orange Pinot Gris – 11.8% al/vol RRP $19.99
This wine is arrogant – and rightly so. A fragrant style wine, a nose of nashi pears, lifted kiwi notes and a floral yet green aroma reminiscent of delicate geranium petals. A clean palate with fresh acidity that leaves the palate refreshed, but if you pay attention, gentle minerally characters sneak through. There is more to this wine than meets first appearances. A sweet nutty character (almonds or cashews) is a pleasant backdrop to the palate and bouquet. A lovely wine with interesting flavours that I would serve with breaded chicken and creamy mustard sauce. Yummy!

2007 Mudgee Chardonnay – 14.6% al/vol RRP $19.99
As you can see, I take my Chardonnay VERY seriously!
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I’m liking what I see – the time this wine has been cellared has afforded this Chardonnay a slight golden colour. And to me – gold never goes out of fashion! The palate is well rounded but still lean with good acidity. The fruit – rock melons, honeydew melon, a little citrus (mandarin), and a firm peach sliced cleanly. The finish is where the oak shows through without dominating the palate. This Chardonnay is not aggressive and would work quite cooperatively with most foods. I’m having it with a chicken caesar salad. What will you enjoy this with? Oh and I think it can be cellared a few more years, go for gold!

2008 Mudgee Rose – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Pretty in pink? Rose coloured glasses? This Rose reminds me of strawberry coulis and Granny Smith apples. It’s very ripe berry fruit flavours are followed by clean acidity and a fun little spritz. Nothing too complicated here, so perfect for when you’ve had a complicated day. Best served super-chilled, it’s lovely and refreshing and doesn’t even need food – only friends.

2009 Mudgee & Orange Pinot Noir – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
Bright and darker than I expected (probably that Mudgee proportion!), excellent varietal definition, strawberries and cherries stretch to the imagination with savoury notes. The nose reminds me of a barnyard, slightly dusty, straw lain, but then the fruit dominates. A medium bodied red with firm tannin and a splash of white pepper, a good length of palate is supported by oak. To serve with this Pinot Noir, I have been eyeing off that free-range duck in the supermarket, but otherwise you could try pork. The tannin will cut through the fat, and the fruit will come to the absolute fore of the palate.

2008 Mudgee Merlot – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Every woman is waiting for something dark, rich and handsome to come into their lives. And here it is ladies. Wait no longer!
Blackberries, and stewed fruits of the forest, the nose is dominated by the charred spiciness of American oak. I first thought dairy milk chocolate, but it developed into espresso – so why not have both? A dark brick red colour, this Merlot has a well rounded, but mellow palate. This has obviously Mudgee origins – having that lovely Mudgee “mud” depth, without being overbearing. A good match for that joint of lamb I intend to roast later.

2008 Mudgee Shiraz – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
This Shiraz is a cowboy of our Wild West – Mudgee. Straight away it lasso’s you in with American oak vigour, and locks you in a dual with the fastest guns of the west (impressive tannin structure and good fruit balance). Packed with aroma and flavour of Cinnamon, and Christmas meat pies, this wine deserves to be in the lock-up (cellared) for a few years before you grace it with good quality rare-medium beef.

2010 Orange Botrytis Chardonnay- 8.5% al/vol RRP $25.00
Not surprisingly very low yielding, this nectar of the gods has dried apricot, dried pears and honey characters. The colour is no less than 22 carats! A fresh acidity finishes the palate with glace pineapple, and the crunch of a toffee apple. It would be unforgiving to try to compete with this wine with a dessert, so let’s pull out the Roquefort (if you’re paying!) otherwise good blue cheese or hard bitey cheddar and pate, and a selection of fresh, dried fruits, yum yum yum.

Thank you to Cooks Lot for letting me have a closer look at their range. It has been an absolute pleasure to browse their range. I will definitely not hesitate to stop in and visit next time I’m in town. I hope you do the same.
Cooks Lot wines are exclusive – but only a delivery away. For ordering information, please visit www.cookslot.com.au.
Cooks Lot produce good quality wines that are excellent value for money.

They can all be purchased on their website (www.cookslot.com.au) or at any decent independent bottleshop.

Cheers

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Mud, blood, bugs, sweat and tears

September 19, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

Growing up, my mum worked weekends in cellar door and so I spent a lot of time with my grandparents who were viticulturists. My family came to NSW from South Australia in order to plant the former Saxonvale vineyard, at Broke. (This was eventually purchased and sold to the mining industry by Michael Hope, the concert entrepreneur of the Hunter Valley.) My grandparents had a hand in planting and/or managing several other estates in the Hunter Valley including Hollydene, Petersons, Briar Ridge, Terrace Vale. My family also established the first vineyards in Port Stephens.

Some of my best memories of the Hunter Valley were collected during my childhood wandering around vineyards – especially Summer time. We would set up a steel grape bin (a large bath shaped bin), fill it with bore water and we had a makeshift pool for the remainder of the day! A lot cleaner than the eel filled dams!

 

PHOTO: Me and My Pa. Palmers Lane, Pokolbin.

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Vintage is the lively time of year when the grapes are harvested, usually between Summer and Autumn. Vintage is the sum of a year’s hard work, with all invested in good weather, exciting quality fruit and a bit of luck. Award winning wines begin with a skilful vigneron.

In order to determine the optimal time to harvest the fruit, the vigneron tests for the right balance of acidity to sugar. Grapes are measured for pH, Total Acidity and Baumé (the concentration of sugar in juice, “pronounced Bow-May”). Harvest too early and the wine will be acidic. The longer the fruit can stay on the vine, the more the natural sugars can develop. It all depends on the style of finished wine the winemaker would like. The right time to harvest might be selected by prevailing weather conditions. These can dramatically change the sugar and acid balance. For example, rain will plump berries, dilute flavour and cause other faults such as mould, mildew and split skins. Due to this, if wet weather is forecast, the Vigneron may choose to harvest sooner rather than later than risk losing their crop.

The fruit can be harvested either by hand or mechanical harvester. Hand picking usually occurs early in the morning, in order to avoid the intense heat of midday sun. Hand picking is fairly gentle on the vines, everyone gets a set of snips and a bucket and you go along the rows, one person either side of the row, until your bucket is full. Some of my favourite memories of growing up in the Hunter was marching down the rows with my bucket. A “bucket boy” (a prized position) quickly exchanges your full bucket for an empty one and tosses the fruit into the “grape bin”, which is being carted by a tractor. An even more prized position is to be driving that tractor slowly through the rows, in an air-conditioned cab. A small amount of Sulphur might be added to the bin of grapes in order to prevent spoilage. The grape bins are loaded onto a truck or towed directly to the winery to be weighed (usually to determine the amount the vigneron will be paid for the fruit). Although not always in money, as I recall my grandparents have been paid in wine and with a car during their time.

When hand harvesting, it can be difficult to get in close to the row and wrestle with the vine canes to get at the plump juicy fruit. In summer, there is also dense leaf foliage, which can be difficult to see the other side. If you’re not careful, you might snip the other person’s fingers! And every variety has different shaped bunches and berries. Pinot Noir would have to be my least favourite to hand-pick as it produces tight and small sporadic bunches! Pinot Noir is a pain in the arse!

In the Hunter Valley, the soils are clay based. After it rains, clay can be very muddy, and slippery. Gum Boot style. If it rains, a garbage bag with a head and arms cut out makes a great raincoat! Hand-picking reminds me of mud, blood, bugs, sweat and tears. These aromas mingle with those of sticky overripe fruit. All saturate the air, emphasised by with the heat of Summer and the sky fills with greedy, invasive vinegar flies. But, grape-picking in the Hunter Valley is a fun, social experience shared by those who were game enough to wage against the heat, and wrestle with the vines drenched in perspiration and juice. Sometimes, it’s simply just the determination to beat the weather to the perfect quality fruit.

At the end of vintage, we would hold a barbecue and closing ceremony. We would hand out funny certificates and novelty prizes to our pickers, such as the “Golden Bucket”. We wouldn’t see these people again until next Vintage.

Hand picking is expensive nowadays. In the early days we could grab a few people from town who wanted a bit of extra pocket money or some exercise and they could be paid a few dollars an hour. Then the government wanted to give everyone a fair go, and be paid properly according to an award. The award was likely 2 or 3 times that of what they were previously getting paid, but amazingly no-one wanted to go grape picking when they had to put their name down on a government form. For a while, Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck turned up for work according to their forms, but it slowly declined.

The alternative is a mechanical harvester. It requires an initial outlay for the machine, ongoing maintenance and one person to drive it. Mechanical harvesting runs through the rows and shakes the berries off the vines. It is often done at night after a full day of ripening to optimise the sugars. It can be done quickly if it looks like rain. Not every vineyard has a mechanical harvester. It is expensive to own and many vineyards contract this out to those who do have one. They can also be rough on old vines. Those operating the harvester don’t get much sleep. During Vintage, they may be called out all over the valley in order to harvest the fruit. One vineyard after another.

Vintage is the only time of year the industry gets a chance to secure their next year’s income, so it is vital their crops are harvested at the right time. Basically in the wine industry if you lose your crop – you don’t get paid.

Once harvested by hand or mechanical harvester, the grapes are taken to the winery where they are crushed and de-stemmed. The resulting juice called “must” which may contain juice, skins and seeds is now ready for fermentation.

I believe during Vintage, there is more beer consumed than any other time… So I leave you with a parting question. I wonder how many beers it takes to produce a bottle of wine?

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Two loves

July 25, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

Waikerie. 177km north east of Adelaide. A small country town nestled along the Murray River. Quintessentially agricultural, with extensive citrus groves and vineyards. Approximately 5000 people.

Right now there are two things in my life that come from Waikerie. Both are beautiful, close to my heart, good value and fun to have around.

The first: my mum

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Kathryn, my mum was born in Waikerie, and is absolutely priceless.

The second: 2010 Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay

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The OLE Chardy (we’re on a first name basis) is $8.99 a bottle direct from estate, $8.99 select bottle shops and $45 for six at my local IGA bottleshop (with a free apron).

Now, to be honest this is not to say my mum is cheap. In no way is she cheap. Economical, thrifty, even trashy – but not at all cheap (love you mum!)

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Nor are we cheap drinkers. We are wine industry raised. This generally means you acquire a cellar palate, and become adverse to crap wine. I was 23 before I ever tried Mateus, and I only did so I could say I’ve tried it! I’ve never participated in a game known as Goon of Fortune. I once pretended I was a non drinker to get out of drinking fruity lexia. Both sacrilege.

However, since leaving the wine industry as an occupation, I occasionally like to sample some of the offerings at the local bottle shop. I like to see how the Real people live. I avoid the boxed wine, and the dreaded Sauvignon Blanc aisle and look for Australian producers and different offerings. I take my mixed selections home and have a look, some are not great. Some are not even good. Most customers wouldn’t know or care.

For example, cleanskin, to me – can be a dirty word. Cleanskins are a favourite amongst the Real world. However I know It can mean wine fault, instability, variance, premature aging, haze, maderisation (heat stroke for wine). However, with most cleanskins it is simply because labels are expensive, bin end, ran out of labels, not up to scratch to normal brand, or went broke.

One day, whilst at the bottleshop – I found, if only by accident, the Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay.
This was fate. At $8.99 a bottle I was a little scared I had become one of the Real people. I was enjoying this wine. I was enjoying this wine a little too much and a little too often. But not over indulging – more like it had become my new favourite. At convenience and price, was I taking advantage? And I was a little embarrassed. I had racked up 3 free aprons, and I thought I had lost my wine knack. Had my flair gone? I was liking this cheap, readily accessible wine.

Then one day, a tweet revealed the truth to me.

@winsordobbin OLE Chardonnay is sensational value

Hurrah! I wasn’t going crazy. My palate remained in tact. Another wine writer (this one paid) openly shared my love for this drop.

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I had in fact found a bargain wine, of which I had no reason to be ashamed to say I liked. With reassurance, It is time to share Oxford Landings Estate Chardonnay with the world. Grab a bargain, for $8.99 it is in fact excellent value. Compared to wines of this price range and even above this price range, I am happy to say it is a safe bet: easy drinking, highly palatable and I can even say it is lovely, sound wine.

A little fruit driven, and a little oak, rounded palate and good mouth feel.
I mean it’s not an 80′s Tina Turner (big hair big shoulder pads) chardonnay. It’s not even a Jane Turner “Kath Day-Knight”: tizzy, small shoulder pads, tropical parrot earrings- styled “Cardonnay”.

This wine is contemporary, balanced, and easy drinking. It’s food friendly, gentle on the palate and is the type of Australian wine that will turn-around Chardonnay sales. The mouth feel is clean, a soft texture with subtle oak, good fruit and pleasant finish. Fresh acidity, and simple Chardonnay character – stone fruit, melon. This Chardonnay is not shy, but it’s still not going to pressure you ABC’s (Anything But Chardonnay) into anything you aren’t ready for.

So next time you want to try something different, something at a great price-point and don’t want to be disappointed – consider my cheap and not-nasty recommendation. (And I’m not talking about my mother!)

Cheers!

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Something Fishy

May 26, 2011 by Rhiannon, iWINEo

I often get asked why there are warnings on wine labels pertaining to fish, milk and egg products? Aren’t the basic ingredients of wine just grapes and yeast?
Well… Yes. However, there are treatments the wine industry use to ‘fine’ or flocculate wine.

Flocculation: [verb] forced removal of sediment from a liquid through addition of a flocculating agent. Gravity controlled flocculation precipitates solids within a liquid.

Still not getting the gist? Ever had a Coopers beer? Did you see the floaties at the bottom? These “floaties” are dead yeast cells left over from Fermentation. This is  the norm. Think back to the death of yeast man.
This happens in wine too- but no one likes “floaties” in their champagne, chardy or verdelho do they? It’s just not on.

So we use a flocculating agent at various stages during wine production to ensure your Sauvignon Blanc is crystal clear. Clarity is important.

So as the below diagram suggests, the fining agent is added to the top of the tank, weighs down on the dead yeast cells (and other floaties) and drags everything to the bottom of the tank where it can be siphoned off. (I drew this on my iPad!)

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So where does the fish come into this?

Traditional fining agents have followed through from old world wine countries to new world wine countries. Such things as isinglass, milk and eggs are commonly used to clarify wine. They can also be used to improve haze, astringency, colour, flavour and even off-odour.

<<< Rewind <<<
Isinglass: [noun] A gelatin derived from the air bladder of a fish – especially and traditionally the sturgeon.

Isinglass is expensive, delicate and will not strip flavour – often used with white wines.

Other Fining agents include:

- eggs: whites only – never sunny side up! Also known as albumin. Usually reserved for red wines and believe it or not it’s only 1-2 egg whites for 100 litres of wine. Barn laid or free range?
-milk: casein, a protein in milk is responsible and wineries usually go for skim milk or powdered skim milk. Often used on white wines.
-chitin: a shellfish bi-product
-bentonite: a clay derivative that is used on white wines and prevents cloudy protein haze.
-blood: in mediterranean countries they have used bulls blood. Well… Twilight made this popular again right?

Hold on? If I’m allergic to seafood do I have to avoid wine?

No. The protein in fish which commonly causes allergic reactions is called parvalbumin. It’s not normally found in isinglass. By the way, modern manufacture of isinglass ensures no residual parvalbumin remains. The European Food Safety Commission led the way and granted isinglass exemption from allergen labelling laws. In 2009, Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) also granted food labeling exemption for isinglass in beer and wine.
Even if trace parvalbumin snuck into the wine with the isinglass, it would settle with the isinglass when flocculated and be removed in the filtration process.

Hold on? This doesn’t sound kosher!

Well technically, isinglass that is derived from a sturgeon isn’t. However isinglass from a kosher fish is. Other un-kosher fining agents include gelatin, casein.

Hold on? I’m a vegetarian /vegan?

If you’re a vegetarian that eats eggs and milk than you’re still in luck. If not, many wines and beers including Guiness are not suitable. Look for wines labelled V for vegan or those that indicate bentonite/ clay/ earth finings.
You can also look for wines that boast “unfined” or “unfiltered”. However it’s good to remember- if it lived on the bunch, it went into the bucket, which went into the bin, which went into the crusher, which was pressed and fermented.

If you’re a vegetarian that eats milk, eggs, vinegar flies, bugs and spiders then I’m sure it’s okay! Oh and we never found the end of that guys finger in 1999 – so if you find it please do let us know….
Between you and me, I prefer my wine bugs to be clarified. Anyway, tests show that there is limited capacity for these wines to absorb these fining agents. We just have to tell you about them is all. Its all in the disclosure.

Some wines will self stabilise- meaning eventually they will sort out their own problems. But if I can’t self-stabilise then how can I expect my chardonnay to? That’s why I needed a Chardonnay in the first place!

And it’s not just wine and beer. Ever wonder why apple juice when juiced at home is opaque and apple juice from the supermarket bought bottle is clear? They also use gelatin or bentonite to flocculate. The particles which make it cloudy precipitate to the bottom of the tank – just like in wine- and are drained off.

So please, continue enjoying your wine and if you are concerned – read the label, ask the winery – but ultimately the main ingredients are grapes and yeast and oak if you are lucky! Eggs, milk, bentonite, isinglass (and perhaps bugs) only visit for a brief stay. And just like your in-laws, they never move in permanently!

Happy International Chardonnay Day!

Posted in Wine Knowledge | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments »

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