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The Good, the Bad and the Yummy

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on January 18, 2012 | Leave a Comment »

Why don’t you rate wines?
I have been asked several times why when I’m reviewing or writing about wines, why I don’t offer them a score or a numerical rating. Aside from not being a really efficient numbers person – maths has never been my strong suit – I don’t score wines because I want to make wine accessible, relatable and easier to appreciate.

For me, wine is subjective. Every wine is different, and so is every person and their preferences and tastes. Our collective experiences in life are also different, this means that in the grand evolution of our wine tasting palates, some people are old and wise whilst others are naive and frivolous – irrespective of our physical age.

Some of us never change… Our hair, our clothes… our wine. This is why there is a still strong market for sweet fizz and why they still make Moselle. It also explains why some people still get a perm and kept their denim jackets in case they come back in fashion! (heads up they are everywhere in the USA so they might be back next season!)

Fashion and fads
Everybody and I mean everybody must be drinking Sauvignon Blanc right now. It is so in fashion right now. The Sauvignon Blanc aisle at Liquorland is strangely the centre of the bottleshop universe. But why? With all their wines, the range is still limited and there are only select few I would consider purchasing. I asked Hunter Valley legend Karl Stockhausen about his opinion on fads and trendy wines for my last article. He said generally consumers flock to obvious characters in wines. What I find annoying (cloying green passionfruit) in Sauvignon Blanc, the normal everyday consumer recognises as delightfully obvious. The same went for over oaked Chardonnay. Over done, and overly obvious.

Karl also told me a story about a more recent line up of winemakers and Sauvignon Blancs for a wine magazine. After tasting all of these wines, though technically well made, none of the experienced palates of these winemakers actually personally liked any of the Sauvignon Blancs. Makes you think doesn’t it?
Biggest selling variety right now and the people making it don’t even like to drink it? It reaffirms everyone’s different and this way you and I never have to share!

Old faithful
I like to go home and drink Chardonnay but that doesn’t mean I don’t have the technical skill to evaluate and appreciate how well made or technically correct a Cabernet Franc, or Chenin Blanc is. It just means that when I’m at home in the privacy of my living room, the first thing that takes my fancy is a good old Chardonnay!

On our recent trip to the USA all we really drank was Chardonnay! Flicking through our photo album has been like, “this is us in San Francisco (drinking Chardonnay), oh and here we are in Vegas (that was a lovely Chardonnay)…check out the wonderful Chardonnay we bought in New York!”

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I find Chardonnay to be complimentary to whatever choose to burn for dinner, and it’s a great match with tacky reality television. The irony is I have always preached the importance and value of wine matching to food in the formal arena, but even I take the low fuss road and enjoy what is in the fridge. Everything goes with Chardonnay!

My Chardonnay doesn’t judge me or my remote control in my Pajamas, and I don’t score or rate how perfect or imperfect my Chardonnay is. We have a great thing going on.

Surely a wine covered in golds is the best….
When you see a wine rated a certain number of points or boasting various stickers of golds or medals, there are certain things that that wine had to be scored upon that appeal to a wine judge. First, usually the wine is submitted to the writer or the wine show. Mostly, wine shows charge the winery to submit per wine, per category of style they wish to enter. It can be a costly process. They give the wine a number, and rate colour, clarity, aroma, palate, length of palate, acid balance, fruit, varietal definition and style against benchmarks and wine faults.

The score is added up and all scores are assessed and scaled against gold silver and bronze. The scores will determine how many medals are given in that category. They could all be bronze. Or none could rank high enough for a medal at all. If there are multiple golds, points determine a top gold and if the wine is deemed spectacular enough, a trophy is awarded. Really, it’s the trophies you want. Most wineries have a filing cabinet full of bronzes and silvers and this is why it’s not overly exciting to see the shiny sticker on the bottle. And trust me, it’s not exciting to have to be the person who sticks those on straight on every bottle. I did that on a labeling line through high school!

Just because James Halliday or the Royal Hobart Wine Show says its a gold, 5 star or a 95 point wine doesn’t mean you’ll even like it. It comes back to personal preferences and palate experience. I know a wine, a Hunter Semillon, that kept winning the trophy at various shows. Technically brilliant, faultlessly interesting. Great acidity, hints of minerality, good length of palate, flawlessly developing honeyed characters and mellowing off as bottle age took hold. The general consumer would taste it and say “very tart” and pull a face. They weren’t talking about me! Their palates were simply not ready for it, nor should they have to wait for the right food (delicious with the right food). The average joe would have rated this multiple trophy winner 1/5.

Back to me
So if I rated or scored a wine, should it be because I liked it personally, or should it be because it was faultlessly made or technically correct, or both? Neither. Just because the experts say its good doesn’t mean you’ll like it. And just because you like it doesn’t mean it’s a well made wine. But who really cares as long as you like it (and it’s Australian grown and made! No more NZ rubbish!)

You can’t even take my professional opinion seriously anymore because you know I went half way across the world and had my Chardonnay Tour, then came home and had some more! I suggest everyone read up on wine, sample as many different wines and styles and regions as possible until you find something you love. And I promise I do venture away to other styles and varieties occasionally!

The moral of this story is a “good glass of wine” doesn’t necessarily mean the same thing as a “glass of good wine”. But ultimately, I enjoy both and so should you!

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The Ben Ean Still: for Breathe Magazine

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 13, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

The Ben Ean Still – 2011 Heritage Award winner ….

Hunter Valley Living Legend Karl Stockhausen shares the history & stories of this wonderful Hunter Valley icon with Rhiannon Stevens.

Each year in the Hunter Valley, we celebrate and acknowledge excellence with our Wine Industry Awards and induction of our Hunter Valley Legends. In 2011, the Hunter Valley Heritage Award was presented to the Ben Ean Winery Old Still House.

Despite being formally recognised as having integral historical importance to our region, little is known as to the origins of the Still at Lindemans Ben Ean. It is believed the Still was already in place when the Ben Ean property on McDonalds Road Pokolbin was purchased from John McDonald by Dr Henry Lindeman in 1912. Who better to ask about this icon than the amazing Hunter Valley Legend – Karl Stockhausen?

So what is a Still?
A still is a permanent apparatus used to heat and then cool liquids to condense and capture vapours. The Ben Ean Still is a simple Pot Still, with a single chamber heated by a steam boiler piped from the Ben Ean Winery.

The purpose of the Ben Ean Still was to collect alcohol and produce Brandy. Pot Stills only give one condensation due to having one pot. The first distillation results in low concentrations and the process is repeated to get higher concentrations. When Karl had used the still in the early 1960′s the first distillation would succeed, however secondary distillations would frustratingly lose alcohol in the process. As the Still is made of copper, the natural properties of Copper remove sulfur from the alcohol. In doing so, the metal eventually corrodes. The carry-over to the condenser column metals were so eroded that alcohol escaped. A Customs Officer informed Karl that they may have to pay duty on the alcohol losses and Lindemans Head Office quickly replaced them with new ones! The Pot itself and the Condenser are of the original Still.

When Karl Stockhausen first arrived at Ben Ean in 1955 there were large stores of Brandy from the Still. Karl recalls being appointed Winemaker and Manager of Lindemans in 1959, and using the Still to recover losses from left over grapes after pressing, through distillation. The labour intensive process was fraught with losses and by the early 1960′s, Karl had convinced his directors to retire the Still. By 1964 the Still was no longer in use and Karl could invest his passions into making Hunter River Riesling (Semillon).

Karl is cautious to assume the Brandy from the Still was used to fortify wines such as Port or Muscat styles. This is because it would have been difficult to produce high concentrations of alcohol (Ethanol) used in Fortified Wines. In order for this, the Still would have required a rectifying column which separates the different alcohols respective of their different boiling points. This means that the Still at Ben Ean was likely there to satisfy a personal preference for Brandy consumption.

Is it a taste for Brandy which has paved the way for Australian wine?
Until the 1960′s the majority of Australian wine on the market was fortified in the style of Port or Sherry. Perhaps it was the shortage of beer and spirits during the second world war which encouraged the consumption of fortified and table wines. Alternatively the appeal of a sweet, rich wine with brandied complexities to an early wine drinker may have begun the evolution of Australian palates. A preference to Brandy may have lead to a taste for fortified wines, which evolved into curiosity for table wines.

A growth in Australian wine sales from 1960 owes to greater popularity in styles such as the semi-sweet Ben Ean Moselle, enjoyed characteristically of the era with an Alpine Lite! Karl Stockhausen blushes as he tells this iconic wine of the 60′s wine boom was first made at Ben Ean in 1956, but was not yet what the market wanted. Later, the market became enamoured by the fruit friendly forwardness of the Ben Ean Moselle. Many a wine drinker owe their interest and evolution of their own palates to the entry-level Ben Ean Moselle, which became the biggest selling white wine for over a decade.

In the late 1960′s dry red wine sales were greater than whites. Karl recalls 1965 Vintage as peculiarly dry and hot whilst still producing an unusually large crop. This meant all open fermenters were full, leaving none to take the quickly ripening fruit. They managed to leave off harvesting the Shiraz it until well into March. When they finally harvested, the sugar content in the fruit was exponentially high, leading to high alcohol percentages and worried Winemakers. At the end of Vintage, Karl explains the Lindemans directors came to the Hunter Valley to taste the wines. “They were the best range of Hunter Reds they had ever seen”. Top shelf styles, Karl describes as “fabulous wines” all still revered today. Karl proudly tells me that recently a bottle from 1965 broke the record, selling for almost $2000.

Other influential styles that Karl Stockhausen has been involved with include the iconic Hunter River Riesling, which was an alias for one of the three Semillon styles he produced at Lindemans. The next trend, for shoulder pads and oaked Chardonnay emerged in the 80′s.

But what is it about these wine styles that give them decade long demand? Karl’s theory rests on The Obvious. Literally. Karl explains, “It was not the flavour of Chardonnay but the obvious oak that made it popular. Sauvignon Blanc, although opposing in style also carries obviousness of character.” Karl explains that wine drinkers are searching for characters they can recognise in their wines. For fortified wines it was the Brandy base, Moselle was sweet supple fruit, Chardonnay was buttery vanillin oak. For Sauvignon Blanc it’s about gooseberries, crispness and green notes. But it’s more than often too hot to grow this variety in the Hunter Valley. McGuigan Wines have now announced their market friendly home grown competitor, affectionately named The Semillon Blanc, using our Hunter Valley reliable and faithful staple, Semillon. Karl describes this wine as a “modern late picked version of Semillon, with full varietal flavour up front, something that lends well to current palates”.

So what for the future, as we all become more familiar with the wine world and more informed about personal preferences of style. What wines will be fashionable? I am a product of the 1980′s and can’t go past a good Chardonnay, but I’ve always said drink what you like. (That way no one has to share!)

Take the opportunity to go back to our roots and enjoy the Hunter Valley’s heritage Ben Ean Still for a wine tasting at Lindemans.

Cheers!

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Summer 2011-12, Breathe Magazine – Issue 31, Summer 2011.

So from here I say bon voyage, as we Jetset across the world for an amazing trip of a lifetime!

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Something Fishy: Breathe Magazine Edition

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 5, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

Breathe Magazine requested for me to rewrite my original “Something Fishy” article for their Hunter Valley Wine Show edition.

Something fishy… What’s the Story of Fish in Wine?

I often get asked why there are warnings on wine labels pertaining to fish, milk and egg products. Aren’t the basic ingredients of wine just grapes and yeast? Sometimes we need a little help to optimise our basic ingredients.

In the Fermentation process, yeast converts the grape sugars (glucose and fructose) into alcohol (and carbon dioxide). Yeast can be found naturally on the skins of the grapes, or it can be introduced. The type of yeast can also affect the flavour, aroma, texture and body of the final wine.

The winemaker may also choose to put the wine through secondary fermentation. Malolactic Fermentation (or Malo for short – pronounced “May-Low”) would usually occur after the primary ferment. During Malo, Lactic Acid Bacteria get busy converting Malic acid from the grapes into Lactic acid in the wine. Lactic acid is not as sharp and acidic to taste, resulting in a wine that has a smoother mouth feel. Malo can result in a buttery, creamy Chardonnay, but if not done skilfully can end up causing faults in the wine.

It is a sad ending for the yeast as after primary ferment, it dies. Unfortunately, the yeast is a casualty of our consumption. Making matters worse, all the residual and dead yeast cells or “lees” are now floating around in our wine. There may also be natural proteins, bacteria and other particles suspended in the wine. I don’t like “floaties” in my Shiraz or Chardonnay. What is the solution to this problem?

Winemakers use a fining agent to flocculate at various stages during wine production, ensuring your Hunter Valley Semillon is crystal clear. Clarity, brightness and transparency are important for both the wine judge, and us wine drinkers.

Flocculation: [verb] forced removal of sediment from a liquid through addition of a flocculating agent. Gravity controlled flocculation precipitates solids within a liquid.

Now for the science lesson: as the diagram suggests, the fining agent is added to the top of the tank, weighs down on the dead yeast cells (and other “floaties”) and drags everything to the bottom of the tank where it can be siphoned off.

Fining agents can improve haze, phenolics, astringency, colour, flavour and even off-odour in wine. Therefore, fining is a process which results in a wine created with finesse, which may also have attractive qualities not present in unfined wine.

Stabilisation can be used to prevent wine faults caused by environmental changes to temperature, humidity and movement. Unstable wines can be subject to haze, tartrates and premature ageing. For example, Cold stabilisation encourages liquid tartaric acid to solidify. “Wine Diamonds” (tartrate crystals) form when the wine is very cold. They develop in small crystals or long shards and can be removed prior to bottling. Sometimes these form in the finished bottle – they may look like glass but are completely harmless.

So where does fish come into this? Not to worry – winemakers are certainly not throwing seafood medley into the tank!

Below are some common fining agents:

Isinglass (pronounced eye-sin-glass) is a gelatin derived from the air bladder of a fish – especially and traditionally the sturgeon. Isinglass is expensive, delicate, will not strip flavour and often used with white wines.

Gelatin has been used to fine wine since Roman civilisation. It can remove harsh tannins, bitter flavours, and improve astringency.

Casein. Casein is an active protein in skim milk or powdered skim milk. It can be used to nullify astringency and bitterness in white wines, sometimes lightening the colour.

PVPP or polyvinyl-polypyrrolidone is a synthetic polymer chain that behaves like a natural protein.

Albumin is the fining agent relating to eggs. Only the whites are used (sometimes powdered) – so never sunny side up! This is usually reserved for red wines and believe it or not it’s only 1-2 egg whites for 100 Litres of wine.

There are natural proteins present in grapes that may cause a cloudy haze if the wine is subject to higher temperatures. Bentonite is a naturally occurring clay or mineral derivative that stabilises the wine, preventing cloudy protein haze in the wine.

Did you know? Bulls blood was commonly used as a fining agent in many European countries including France, until 1997 when the EU banned this practice as a measure to curb Mad Cow’s Disease.

If I’m allergic to seafood do I have to avoid wine?

No. Not even with wines fined with Isinglass. The protein in fish which commonly causes allergic reactions is called parvalbumin. It’s not normally found in isinglass.

Modern manufacture of isinglass ensures no residual parvalbumin remains. The European Food Safety Commission led the way and granted isinglass exemption from allergen labelling laws. In 2009, Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) also granted food labelling exemption for isinglass in beer and wine. Even if trace parvalbumin snuck into the wine with the isinglass, it would settle with the isinglass when flocculated and be removed in the filtration process.

This doesn’t sound kosher!

Well technically, isinglass that is derived from a sturgeon isn’t. However isinglass from a kosher fish is. Other un-kosher fining agents include gelatin, casein.

I’m a vegetarian /vegan?

A lot of wines on the market are still unfined or use vegetarian-friendly fining agents. Synthetic fining agents are increasingly popular, and Bentonite is one of the most common fining agents. It is important to consider that some wines and many beers may not be suitable.

Vegans can look for wines that boast “unfined” or “unfiltered” or Bentontite/clay. Some wineries are cleverly labelling for vegetarian and vegan consumption determined by their winemaking processes. Just because some wines are labelled as vegetarian-friendly doesn’t mean that the wines that don’t specify aren’t already suitable for vegetarians or vegans. Continue enjoying Hunter Valley wines and if you are concerned – read the label and ask the friendly folks at the winery.

Testing has shown that there is limited capacity for wines to absorb fining agents and when they have been detected, only in negligent proportions. Fining is considered more natural and delicate a process than filtration which can rapidly strip a wine of colour and flavour. It’s also an important part of traditional winemaking practice that Australian winemakers have inherited from our old world wine countries.

So now you know more about the processes behind some of our proud award winning wines– celebrate quality Hunter Valley wines and appreciate the complexity of the science and skill it took to produce them.

Cheers to that!

 

This article was published in Breathe Magazine – Issue 30, Spring 2011  “Hunter Valley Wine Show edition” – see link.

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Too many Cooks spoil the broth? Not at Cooks Lot

Posted in Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 26, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

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Cooks Lot is one of those under-rated classic labels, unique to country New South Wales. A smaller scaled family operation, Cooks Lot wines are indicative of their origins whilst showing unique character and flair that only comes from small production and passionate wine making.

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If you haven’t yet visited Mudgee you’re overdue and I do not tolerate tardiness! Mudgee is one of the best kept secrets of the West, to which we owe Australia’s first Chardonnay plantings (hail Mary!) and some of the best robust reds on this side of the border! Neighbouring Orange produces some of Australia’s finest Cool Climate, delicate styled and fashionable wines.

Cooks Lot capitalises on the best of both of these worlds and produces some stealthy, straight forward and first class Australian wines. Each wine I’ve poured under the Cooks Lot label has been individually expressive and full of personality. It is often with the smaller wineries that you find the bigger rewards and the friendlier faces. Time to make the pilgrimage to Mudgee….


2009 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
With Australian wines like this, why do we bother with New Zealand? A bright straw colour, this Sauvignon Blanc has a delicate finesse. It’s gentle, restrained and refined; yet fresh, ripe and youthful. Lively tropical notes such as Kiwi and Pineapple start at the front of the palate and mellow into clean, crisp, zesty citrus. This ripe lemony acidity is a lovely way to balance the palate, with the nice surprise of a gentle tartaric buzz. With more aeration, the typical grassy undertones peep through.

A perfect wine for a hot afternoon, some fresh prawns and close friends on the verandah. Alternatively I think this Sauvignon Blanc is just yearning for Asian flavours, could definitely handle the heat and would be ideal paired with Thai. Yum!

2010 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 11.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Quite a lifted bouquet, fresh fruit fills the air as I fill my glass. Pineapple on the nose- as if i was chopping it fresh- skin and all. The palate is lean with acidity, and crispness develops into fresh squeezed, pink lemonade. As per varietal definition, an underlying green character lingers with slight herbaceousness, reminding me of tomato leaf.

2011 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 12.1% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lighter colour than previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc has the pleasant juicy aroma of peeling an orange, down to the pith. The greenness reminds me of morning dew on fresh cut grass, but this develops into green bananas. From here, kiwi fruit envelopes the palate, leaving a tropical mouth feel.

2008 Mudgee Riesling – 11.3% al/vol RRP $19.99
Straw coloured with lime hues, this is a Riesling showing good depth. It starts off friendly and mellow, good varietal character, soft steely tones and just when you think you can trust it- a fresh, zesty acidity sweeps the palate. It is this fine acidity which makes it a clean and interesting wine. Kiwi fruit and fresh passionfruit develop into limes, and tart citrus – like tangerines. The bouquet is delicate with blossoms. A wine to cellar for a few more years to continue the mystery of mellow tones and surprising high notes.

2010 Mudgee Riesling – 12% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lovely surprise as this is different from it’s 2008 cousin. A more aromatic wine with greater fruit intensity, is wine shows intense passionfruit characters and green pear on the palate, with a zesty citrus finish. The aroma is playful with spectacular purple passionfruit flowers and a candied toffee apple. Having tasted this wine I’m craving a salad of figs, walnuts and blue cheese. The fullness of the palate and clean fruit could take this just nicely!

2011 Orange Pinot Gris – 11.8% al/vol RRP $19.99
This wine is arrogant – and rightly so. A fragrant style wine, a nose of nashi pears, lifted kiwi notes and a floral yet green aroma reminiscent of delicate geranium petals. A clean palate with fresh acidity that leaves the palate refreshed, but if you pay attention, gentle minerally characters sneak through. There is more to this wine than meets first appearances. A sweet nutty character (almonds or cashews) is a pleasant backdrop to the palate and bouquet. A lovely wine with interesting flavours that I would serve with breaded chicken and creamy mustard sauce. Yummy!

2007 Mudgee Chardonnay – 14.6% al/vol RRP $19.99
As you can see, I take my Chardonnay VERY seriously!
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I’m liking what I see – the time this wine has been cellared has afforded this Chardonnay a slight golden colour. And to me – gold never goes out of fashion! The palate is well rounded but still lean with good acidity. The fruit – rock melons, honeydew melon, a little citrus (mandarin), and a firm peach sliced cleanly. The finish is where the oak shows through without dominating the palate. This Chardonnay is not aggressive and would work quite cooperatively with most foods. I’m having it with a chicken caesar salad. What will you enjoy this with? Oh and I think it can be cellared a few more years, go for gold!

2008 Mudgee Rose – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Pretty in pink? Rose coloured glasses? This Rose reminds me of strawberry coulis and Granny Smith apples. It’s very ripe berry fruit flavours are followed by clean acidity and a fun little spritz. Nothing too complicated here, so perfect for when you’ve had a complicated day. Best served super-chilled, it’s lovely and refreshing and doesn’t even need food – only friends.

2009 Mudgee & Orange Pinot Noir – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
Bright and darker than I expected (probably that Mudgee proportion!), excellent varietal definition, strawberries and cherries stretch to the imagination with savoury notes. The nose reminds me of a barnyard, slightly dusty, straw lain, but then the fruit dominates. A medium bodied red with firm tannin and a splash of white pepper, a good length of palate is supported by oak. To serve with this Pinot Noir, I have been eyeing off that free-range duck in the supermarket, but otherwise you could try pork. The tannin will cut through the fat, and the fruit will come to the absolute fore of the palate.

2008 Mudgee Merlot – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Every woman is waiting for something dark, rich and handsome to come into their lives. And here it is ladies. Wait no longer!
Blackberries, and stewed fruits of the forest, the nose is dominated by the charred spiciness of American oak. I first thought dairy milk chocolate, but it developed into espresso – so why not have both? A dark brick red colour, this Merlot has a well rounded, but mellow palate. This has obviously Mudgee origins – having that lovely Mudgee “mud” depth, without being overbearing. A good match for that joint of lamb I intend to roast later.

2008 Mudgee Shiraz – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
This Shiraz is a cowboy of our Wild West – Mudgee. Straight away it lasso’s you in with American oak vigour, and locks you in a dual with the fastest guns of the west (impressive tannin structure and good fruit balance). Packed with aroma and flavour of Cinnamon, and Christmas meat pies, this wine deserves to be in the lock-up (cellared) for a few years before you grace it with good quality rare-medium beef.

2010 Orange Botrytis Chardonnay- 8.5% al/vol RRP $25.00
Not surprisingly very low yielding, this nectar of the gods has dried apricot, dried pears and honey characters. The colour is no less than 22 carats! A fresh acidity finishes the palate with glace pineapple, and the crunch of a toffee apple. It would be unforgiving to try to compete with this wine with a dessert, so let’s pull out the Roquefort (if you’re paying!) otherwise good blue cheese or hard bitey cheddar and pate, and a selection of fresh, dried fruits, yum yum yum.

Thank you to Cooks Lot for letting me have a closer look at their range. It has been an absolute pleasure to browse their range. I will definitely not hesitate to stop in and visit next time I’m in town. I hope you do the same.
Cooks Lot wines are exclusive – but only a delivery away. For ordering information, please visit www.cookslot.com.au.
Cooks Lot produce good quality wines that are excellent value for money.

They can all be purchased on their website (www.cookslot.com.au) or at any decent independent bottleshop.

Cheers

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Two loves

Posted in Wine Reviews, Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 25, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

Waikerie. 177km north east of Adelaide. A small country town nestled along the Murray River. Quintessentially agricultural, with extensive citrus groves and vineyards. Approximately 5000 people.

Right now there are two things in my life that come from Waikerie. Both are beautiful, close to my heart, good value and fun to have around.

The first: my mum

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Kathryn, my mum was born in Waikerie, and is absolutely priceless.

The second: 2010 Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay

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The OLE Chardy (we’re on a first name basis) is $8.99 a bottle direct from estate, $8.99 select bottle shops and $45 for six at my local IGA bottleshop (with a free apron).

Now, to be honest this is not to say my mum is cheap. In no way is she cheap. Economical, thrifty, even trashy – but not at all cheap (love you mum!)

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Nor are we cheap drinkers. We are wine industry raised. This generally means you acquire a cellar palate, and become adverse to crap wine. I was 23 before I ever tried Mateus, and I only did so I could say I’ve tried it! I’ve never participated in a game known as Goon of Fortune. I once pretended I was a non drinker to get out of drinking fruity lexia. Both sacrilege.

However, since leaving the wine industry as an occupation, I occasionally like to sample some of the offerings at the local bottle shop. I like to see how the Real people live. I avoid the boxed wine, and the dreaded Sauvignon Blanc aisle and look for Australian producers and different offerings. I take my mixed selections home and have a look, some are not great. Some are not even good. Most customers wouldn’t know or care.

For example, cleanskin, to me – can be a dirty word. Cleanskins are a favourite amongst the Real world. However I know It can mean wine fault, instability, variance, premature aging, haze, maderisation (heat stroke for wine). However, with most cleanskins it is simply because labels are expensive, bin end, ran out of labels, not up to scratch to normal brand, or went broke.

One day, whilst at the bottleshop – I found, if only by accident, the Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay.
This was fate. At $8.99 a bottle I was a little scared I had become one of the Real people. I was enjoying this wine. I was enjoying this wine a little too much and a little too often. But not over indulging – more like it had become my new favourite. At convenience and price, was I taking advantage? And I was a little embarrassed. I had racked up 3 free aprons, and I thought I had lost my wine knack. Had my flair gone? I was liking this cheap, readily accessible wine.

Then one day, a tweet revealed the truth to me.

@winsordobbin OLE Chardonnay is sensational value

Hurrah! I wasn’t going crazy. My palate remained in tact. Another wine writer (this one paid) openly shared my love for this drop.

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I had in fact found a bargain wine, of which I had no reason to be ashamed to say I liked. With reassurance, It is time to share Oxford Landings Estate Chardonnay with the world. Grab a bargain, for $8.99 it is in fact excellent value. Compared to wines of this price range and even above this price range, I am happy to say it is a safe bet: easy drinking, highly palatable and I can even say it is lovely, sound wine.

A little fruit driven, and a little oak, rounded palate and good mouth feel.
I mean it’s not an 80′s Tina Turner (big hair big shoulder pads) chardonnay. It’s not even a Jane Turner “Kath Day-Knight”: tizzy, small shoulder pads, tropical parrot earrings- styled “Cardonnay”.

This wine is contemporary, balanced, and easy drinking. It’s food friendly, gentle on the palate and is the type of Australian wine that will turn-around Chardonnay sales. The mouth feel is clean, a soft texture with subtle oak, good fruit and pleasant finish. Fresh acidity, and simple Chardonnay character – stone fruit, melon. This Chardonnay is not shy, but it’s still not going to pressure you ABC’s (Anything But Chardonnay) into anything you aren’t ready for.

So next time you want to try something different, something at a great price-point and don’t want to be disappointed – consider my cheap and not-nasty recommendation. (And I’m not talking about my mother!)

Cheers!

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Bring back the romance

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 28, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

The subject of wine has allure, fable and mystery interwoven within its being. The practice of buying wine should also be a romantic experience, right?

Imagine this:

Driving slowly through the entrance, you’ve been looking forward to this all day. You steer the car into the next available park. It’s busier than you expected, nevertheless you stretch out wide and inhale that fresh air. You’re in no hurry and take in the views and scenery and a tractor whizzes past. There are other people making their way back to their cars with bottles and cartons, chattering happily. Ahhh! This is the life! You saunter leisurely over to enter the sales room, and you stop to read the sign above your head:

DAN MURPHY’S.  What?!

Sorry, did I forget to mention that tractor was towing supermarket trolleys?

We’ve all done it – made the not-so-romantic trip to our local bottleshop. But when did we choose convenience over romance?

A bottle shop offers a diversity of varietals, styles, regions, labels. However, there are more and more overseas wines competing with our home-grown beauties on a bottleshop shelf. Why are we buying New Zealand wines, but preaching about buying Australian oranges? And talk about killing the romance. If my hubby brought home a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, I’d have to say “Not tonight honey. I’ve got a headache.”

A cellar door is never going to offer you 4c off your fuel, or ask for Fly Buys. But when you open that majestic Hunter Valley Shiraz, you’ll recall that story the sales person at the Cellar Door told you. You’ll boast to your friends about how the block was originally drafted as a Graveyard, how the 2007 Vintage was particularly good for the Hunter Valley. And that’s if you even want to share these quality wines with your friends!

Like many people, I have two wine racks. The farcical yet innocent frontline display of “quaffers” that can be viewed by visitors; and the hidden delights of the never-never wine rack that select few will ever patronise. The two collections tend to also be divided in their contents – the public viewing contains mostly bottleshop purchases and the secret vault hides most of my special occasion/’touch and you die’ wines. The rationale? Sometimes you loved a wine so much you just want to keep it all to yourself – a monogamous relationship. Having to pour another glass for a guzzling mate would just be sacrilege.

And that’s just it. Cellar Door wines tend to have that special quintessential romance that is just lacking in a bottle shop purchase. They are not just fermented grapes in a glass vestibule. Cellar door wines have the essence of terroir (place), handcrafted components lovingly melded into a distinctive product. A bottleshop purchase  is just Everyday Rewards points and a standard wine that you’ll consume and forget within 24 hours. At a Hunter Cellar Door your wine will be love at first… taste. Cellar Door Only wines are often smaller production, higher quality and in more interesting styles than monosyllabic and barcoded supermarket wines. This is where winemakers bring their love to the table, their expressions of taste or specialty. The cellar door is where winemakers spruce their talents and at the same moment, share their passion, stories and infatuation with you.

It is this cultural capital that you collect as you venture from Jan at Gartelmann to Kathryn at Wandin Valley and back to see Sharon at Leaves & Fishes for a fabulous lunch. In a day you could learn that your favourite variety is Viognier, especially with French oak, and that you’re not a fan of wild yeast wines but are in love with a good Charmat Chambourcin.

And even better? You’ll have learnt the lingo, pronounced everything perfectly and understood what it all meant.  Brad at IGA Liquor has never been this insightful. Not only will you have a wonderful time, you’ll be more popular at the water cooler on Monday morning, crooning about lovely Hunter wines and the even more fascinating Hunter gossip.

So if you need an excuse for your next weekend to the Hunter Valley just remember that it’s all in the Romance. It’s not about the sentimentality of a naughty weekend in the Hunter Valley, nor is it the beautiful and relaxing scenery or the marvellous dining opportunities (those are just the bonuses)! It’s in the nostalgia of a great cellar door experience. Besides, a great bottle of Hunter Valley Chardonnay is better than a postcard for those pokey neighbours you are always trying to out-do.

(And if you can’t make the trip – search out Hunter produced wines at your local and go to the festivals – it will keep you going until romance can flourish once again!)

This article was published in Breathe magazine – Autumn 2011 ” Hunter Valley Food and Wine Month Editon”.

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Tulloch Hunter Valley 2010 Verdelho

Posted in Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on January 6, 2011 | 4 Comments »

Dear Blog,

I regret not writing sooner. The longer I left it… the more embarrassed about not writing I became. But the truth is, I did miss you and my attentions, although redirected – were good. I have started to pursue post-graduate study and have simply concentrated all into that over the past few months. And ashamedly, I have still been drinking – just without you…

But over new years, my resolution is to share more wines, laughs and interesting … even boring tales – whining or wining with you.

So tonight, I throught I’d have another crack -

                                                                 –at a stelvin seal that is.

So feeling a bit fruity, I went for a Verdelho. Not a traditional favourite of the real wineo, yet - in my eyes far superior to the herds of crappy Sauvignon Blanc that still saturate the market en-masse. [Seriously? A whole aisle for Sauvignon Blanc? Don't get me wrong, I don't hate the grape. Its not Sauvignon Blanc's fault. In fact I blame the "fad" of Sauvignon Blanc because just like Chardonnay in the 80's there is soooooooooooooooooooooooo (soooooooooooooooooo) many bad ones. A great "Sauvvy B" can be wonderful. But I have never found one in a bottle shop. ]

Back to Verdelho. I think one of Hunter Valley’s regional hero’s is Verdelho. It just works for our climate.

Now the variation for Verdelho can be its let down. They can be anywhere on a scale from dry to fruity, but they are always going to be all about the fruit. This one,  pale straw in colour. Citrus on the nose, reminding me of freshly grated zest. I get a hint of freshly cut pineapple and the last aroma is slightly green like bruised lemon tree leaves. The best part, is with more air and active swilling – the fresh pineapple turns candied – embarrassingly taking me back to pineapple lollies at school (without smelling sweet).

Righteo, the palate. It does have residual sugar, and is fruitier than other traditional varieties, but I don’t mind my Verdelho carrying fresh fruit flavour. And on the scale of fruity its not obscene. Anyway, fruity is why it matches so well with spicy foods like Thai. It can just handle the heat, when a Chardonnay or a Semillon would just go crying home to mummy.

The fruitiness of the palate is tarty, yet fleshy citrus – lemons, mandarins and oranges which have to share the glass with pineapple. The whole palate is backed up by excellent acidity. Just the way I like it. Acidity can save the day in a fruitier style of wine by cutting the palate off short, midway. Its a bit like hemming your palate.

The mouth feel is fun, its smooth…. smooth… zingy (without an annoying spritz) and then clean. The palate is left with a pleasant lingering sensation, and its overall a good example of Hunter Verdelho, and an even better example of why Hunter Valley wine should be the top of the bottle shop purchasing books.

This wine is people-friendly. The Spicy food activist would enjoy this, as well as the naive drinker. Its not a think and drink wine, its really just a pour and adore.

13% al/vol, screw cap, available in bottleshops

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Sick to Cheap: Stonegate 2008 Chardonnay

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 28, 2010 | 1 Comment »

So I went to Sydney Good Food and Wine Show – tasted many wines (yet to come on here) and came home with a shopping spree of goodies from Paddies Markets, some food showbags and the worst flu virus of all time. Seriously, “I don’t get sick” and I was Fully Sick. Down with the Sickness. So Sick. SICK SICK SICK. (In the styles of Disturbed, NE-YO and Queens of the Stone Age – with better hair).

I couldn’t taste, smell, talk, see, function. I had to go to the doctors. I don’t GO to the doctors. What is the doctors? In summary, it was the flu that felt like death. And thus, my blog had to be temporary abandoned. For this, I apologise.

Currently, I still wheeze and kind of head into losing my voice. But my nose is currently unblocked and I can TASTE. I’ll be absolutely honest and say after 7 days of being sick, I was missing my frequent intake of wine and tried to substitute this with Cointreau. Devastating.

Okay, my point… tonight my very sick mother surprised me. She bought me a present. A $2.99 bottle of Chardonnay. No Thats not a Typo. $2.99 – On Fridays apparently. Saturdays -Thursdays its still only $5.99.

I’m no wine snob. But I do have bottles in my measly collection that retail over $120 per bottle. I have purchased wines that are more expensive than most of my shoes. And OH do I LIKE Shoes. But hey – I will try anything. Some things are palateable. Mostly the barely “palatable” wines leave you with a not so palatable hangover. (Yes I am saying the quality of wine will affect your hangover.)

$2.99 is within my price range. I’m a risk taker. I’ve felt sick all week, and my palate is not yet ready to graduate so what better to right about first off the cusp?

So… Stonegate 2008 *Limited Edition* Chardonnay. South Australian. Renmark – sort of where my family come from.

I hate to be cynical…. No I lie. I love to be cynical. How limited edition can a $2.99 bottle of wine be?

Hey – its not terrible. I am so judgemental to expect it to be terrible. But in my favour it is more expensive to have a glass of Chardonnay filled to the brim at my local bowling club than to have a bottle of this in my jim jams and uggs in the privacy of my own home.

Ok… this wine actually tastes like a chardonnay. I mean, it has varietal character – stone fruits, melon and good balance. The finish is that of a $2.99 wine – fine with cleaner acidity. I believe it is slightly oaked but more likely oak chipped. But who am I to judge? Its pleasant. The fruits are all in the front and discipate quickly. But with food, most people wouldn’t even take notice.

A mild and lean wine, surpassing all expectations and very affordable (on a Friday). Would I buy it again? Hell yes. Would I cook with it? Probably. Would I drink it again? Very likely. Would I share with friends? To be honest, yes. Its perfectly acceptable and really great value.

I am now a loud and proud $2.99 bottle drinker. [Yeah I went there.]

Oh and, hopefully this week I will go through all my illegible notes and try and ‘interpretive dance’ my way through the Good Food and Wine Show experience that was 2 weeks ago.

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Facebook and De Bortoli 2009 Chardonnay

Posted in Wine Knowledge, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 15, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

I was so excited this week. I’ll get to this in a second.

I am a huge supporter of Facebook for Business marketing. I started Petersons Wines off when I worked there and it now is in the thousands in both friends and fans. Its been brilliant with lots of rewards for wine drinkers including notification of events, novelty of applications, new releases and general interaction with your favourite winery INSTANTLY.

When I started the use of Facebook I was hit with criticism. From other colleagues ( to whom I am blowing a big fat raspberry of phooey); other wineries (who ironically now also “have” to use it to remain competitive which I lOVE), from marketers and from others. But overall the response what beyond expectations, so much so other wineries and businesses followed suit. I even did some consultancy work to establish the same for other wineries. FIGJAM.

But enough on this. I WAS SO EXCITED THIS WEEK… because last week I was able to offer a winery advice on how they could increase hits to their Facebook page. They posted asking for advice from consumers and I thought… I can do this…

So I rattled off some quick (but extensive) list of what I know all about social networking marketing.

And this week I got a message from that winery saying I’d won a twin pack of wine for offering advice. I would have done it for free! So in return I’ve decided to give them a plug on my blog. (I hope they don’t mind)

I received in the post today, a bottle of Deen De Bortoli Vat 7 Chardonnay (and a Durif TBA). I believe “South Eastern Australia” is a euphemism for Griffith (Australia’s largest chunk of wine growing).  This is also obvious because De Bortoli are also known for their Noble One (very very good) and Griffith is perfect locale for growing Botrytised fruit. But could indicate anywhere else within the vicinity of South Eastern Australia.

I was provided with tasting notes but chucked these out. Wine is subjective and this is what I thought of it:

A bright, yet pale lemony straw colour without that heavy oaky colour.  An oaked Chardonnay with a nice leaness about it. Its there but if you weren’t totally looking for it you might forget you don’t drink oaked chardonnay. Its definately NOT new oak. But its got a nice rounded palate with full display of peach, and mandarin and a hint of rock melon. True varietal characters. A nice level of residual sugar remains on the palate – something sure to please the masses, and works really quite well  for this wine as its backed up by pleasant acidity.

I enjoy the complexity of the bouquet here – again Yellow Peach, almonds/nuttiness, and really reminicent of… Chardonnay. Its suffice, exactly what I would expect. Very pleasant. Enjoyable.

I ideally, would match with spicy seafood including Thai Chilli Prawns, or something with an Asian  spicy slant. Anything kind of fruity goes great with spice – and as a solid wineo, this is why I don’t totally reject fruity wines. Don’t get me wrong – its not fruity for a supermarket wine, its fruity for a cellar door wine. I also LOVE spicy foods. BUT… for me Anything Goes with Chardonnay. If I had a movie about my life, that would be the title.

13% al/vol, screw cap. http://www.debortoli.com.au/our-wines/our-brands/deen-vat-series/listing/view/deen-vat-7-chardonnay-2009.html 

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I [HEART] Chardonnay

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 15, 2010 | 2 Comments »

For those of you who know me, you would know that I love Chardonnay. Call me old fashioned – BUT in my favour I am a product of the 80′s, and I am very similar to my mum who also loves Chardonnay. I might talk wine all day, and enjoy a large  plethora of varieties, but after hours I want to go home and have a glass bottle of Chardonnay. But I do draw the line on a few options.

Unlike most of you ABC’s (Anything But Chardonnay), I do enjoy Oaked Chardonnay. I think there are so many poorly made Chardonnays out there that it got a bad name – much like all the rubbish Sauv Blancs available now. It happens when something becomes fashionable. We see a trend with Chanel or Burberry and next week Target’s got a very acceptable but poorly made version that doesn’t fit as well and the fabrics are cheap. Same goes for wine.

The other thing about Fashion Trends is that they parallel with … Wine Trends:
Chardonnay / Shoulder Pads in the 80′s-90′s.
Rose /Midrift-lowrise and the 90′s
Sauvignon Blanc /Skinny Jeans are making their way out in the Noughties …
to be replaced (I believe) by Lady Gaga Futuristico and Pinot Gris.

Back on Topic – those of you who say they hate oaked chardonnay – PLEASE try a style like Petersons Shirley Chardonnay, Petaluma, Peacock Hill or Scarborough White Label. You cannot possibly hate toffee, butterscotch, cream, vanilla and toast. OMG it is UNBELIEVABLE. (If you still hate it, go with the right foods. I can even drink Sauvignon Blanc with the right seafood). And if you refuse to drink it because its not trendy to “still wear the shoulder pads”  – its more for me! Actually… come to think of it… please don’t buy my favourite Chardonnays. They sell out quickly and that leaves none for me. And I can’t afford for prices to go up.

Another way around the heavy oaked styles is to go for LIGHTLY oaked styles such as Petersons Wines Cuvee Chardonnay, and Scarborough Yellow Label. They tend to be fruiter, safer, lighter, consistent and easy drinking. A stepping stone to my favourite variety. If you can’t even go there – don’t bother with unoaked Chardonnay – go to a varietal such as Viognier which is sometimes blended with Chardonnay and when oaked can also be awesomely rich and luscious. When unoaked it still carries the lovely stone fruits.

One thing I don’t understand is unoaked wild yeast Chardonnay. It reminds me of mud and biological waste. Sorry. I DON’T Get it. But feel free to email me at pookiemonster@gmail.com and send me samples. I’ll write the tasting notes and let you know. But no promises.

Hate to love you and leave you but I have Chardonnay to tend to!!

P.S Considering Visiting 2010 Good Food and Wine Show this weekend. See you at the Petersons Wines Stand.

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*From a Bottle!*

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 22, 2010 | 2 Comments »

Recently, I visited my local Bowling Club. Don’t judge me. Yes I know where my local club is, yes I’m a member.

I ordered a glass of Chardonnay absent mindedly. Then I realised this could be fatal and sharply added *From a Bottle!* as a stipulation to my order.

Until this moment, I had no idea how high my standards were -and how judgemental I was. (Despite being at a Bowling Club…) Now, my $4 glass of Stony Peak Chardonnay *From a Bottle!* was worth every cent… depending on which way you look at it. :)

For a brief moment, I was bothered by my realisations of panic about my crappy Chardonnay. My brain momentarily convinced itself that it would be the end of the world if I forgot to mention *From a Bottle!* But would there be much difference between the quality of two vessels at a Bowling Club?

Ashamedly, even I can drink a posturised glass beaker of oak chipped, highly sulphured and questionable* Chardy. (*Questionable because I wonder what proportion of Muscatel juice is used in supermarket wines to sweeten us up – likely the legal dose without needing to legally mention on the label. I don’t usually like my Chardonnay Unleaded E10).

So standing in line with my Chardonnay, I remembered a fantastic evening I had once spent dining at the then-new Hunter Valley Crowne Plaza. Amongst the group was Hunter Valley legend, Karl Stockhausen (a winemaker in the Hunter Valley for over 50 years). He probably wouldn’t even remember me, but I recall the huge honour I believed it was to be in his company. After all – hes a bit of a Hunter Valley Celebrity.

On this night, I ordered my favourite Peacock Hill Chardonnay, *From a Bottle!* and everyone in the group had a wine of some sort. Karl asked for a glass of Sparkling Wine. Naively, the young girl behind the bar offered this huge wineo the “house” sparkling. It was some tragic, energetic, blushing, barely Charmat styled sweety. Gasps and horror from the crowd. Crickets sang.

There was also a Methode Champenoise Bubbles on the wine list, more appropriate for a figure like Karl. It was luxuriously dressed in black and gold, the Bentley of wine.

Surprisingly, Karl accepted the cheap bubbly. He took it for a test drive, and I had to take a step back and put on my seat-belt. He began to engage the flute in serious appraisal. He looked at the colour, questioned the mode of Sparkling Production, described the bouquet and made a judgement on which varietals might comprise to give the flowery, candied flavours. He even ate the *Shudder* strawberry that was precariously positioned on the lip of the glass. (Don’t put fruit in your wine unless you’re making Sangrea, it interferes with the wine).

Karl took it all with a pinch of salt. I had to pinch myself. Karl was truely a good sport. Living Legend. Literally.

So here I am, back at the daggy local bowling club. I’m in line paying for my $4 Chardonnay *From a Bottle!* that is fit for a Blue Rinse and a game of Bingo, and I’m thinking to myself – I hope I’m insured in case I crash. Here goes… Colour = good, golden hues.
Bouquet = who knows in this glass?
Palate = saturated in residual sugar without being “sweet”, but satisfyingly sound – stone fruits and something reminicent of oak in there.
Price Point = competitive.
Great Mileage, quiet engine, not a Rolls Royce, not even a Corolla… but passes the REVs Check, (Now you’ll love this one… REVs = Rhiannon’s Everyday Vino.. LOL) and not quite a bomb.

Yes, its hard not to be happy with a $4 glass of wine *From a Bottle!*.

At this point I was waiting for my change, distracted by my Chardonnay and almost didn’t notice the elderly man next to me who was placing his order. He excused his way past me as he ordered “Two Glasses of Dry Red”, then sharply added *From the Fridge* as his stipulation. “Cask ok?”, She queried. “What else is there?” he revelled.

Tempting to shudder, but instead I shrugged. Although – I wasn’t game to ask what kind of car he drove. It’s probably not even registered… because he’s definately unlicenced.

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What’s in a Name? Mules of the Wine World.

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 20, 2010 | 4 Comments »

Hybrids. What do we know about them?

Cheap to run, fuel saving, energy efficient… Disease Resistant?!

Hybrids of the wine world are those single varieties which are genetic result of two or more other grape varieties. But how prominent are hybridised varieties in the Australian Market? They might be more common than you think.

Is Chambourcin the mule of the wine world? A favourite amongst hybridised wine producing grape varieties, Chambourcin has held its own through being a deep coloured wine with intense aromatic flavour, and not having any “foxy” flavour carried by many hybrids. Along with its intense colour it is interestingly one of the worlds only Pink-Pulped varieties. It is also favourably resistant to fungal diseases – a reason it has become popular to the Australian climate. It also makes a fabulous sparkling wine – and we all know how much Australia loves Sparkling Red. So what’s wrong with a mule if it pulls the cart the same… if not better than a horse?

But would a wine by any other name still taste as… sweet? Chambourcin has only been available since 1963, and was developed by Johannes Seyve. Once upon a time, Chambourcin was named Johannes Seyve 26-205 and I once read, “Chambourcin” is also the name of a cheese. Perhaps its excellent pairing with cheese lead to the naming? Unfortunately for us, Johannes never wrote anything down when he was cross-pollinating with his paintbrush (forcing flowers to fornicate can really be a distracting process). Johannes defiled up to 8 vitis ancestries to produce Chambourcin and unfortunately for us, later died with no records of the official parentage (and we do hope it was of natural causes and not owed to Chambourcin). Mystery is not always romantic, but the grape was born from a native North American grape, and French vines in the Loire Valley. Chambourcin still remains a bastard of sorts not knowing who its many fathers are.

Perhaps it comes back to the naming of the grape. If its pseudonym sounds traditional - a hybrid is more easily accepted by the Old World. Take for example Durif. In Australia more often than not – we call it by the name of the man that invented it. The Durif variety originated in 1880 when François Durif (a botanist) founded a cross of Syrah and Peloursin. Egotistically he named it after himself – but hey who’s judging? – I had a wine named after me too. The point of the story, is that the majority of Petite Sirah plantings can be DNA proven to be Durif. Same Diff huh? Apparently this happens alot.

Of  course Zinfandel‘s fairy tale story arouses the continual arguement of nature versus nurture. Zinfandel has been genetically proven to be the same grape as Primitivo of Italy and Crljenak Kaštelanski of Croatia. (yeah dont ask me how to say that last one). So what happened? Separated at birth, given different names, regional terroir and traditons change the style of wine produced and we just forgot that it went on a holiday under an alias? Did they not check the passport? Keep in mind, this example is not a hybrid, but each is a clone of the same variety. Which one is Molly?

Australia (and many new world wine producing countries) tend to be kinder to hybridised varietals than the old wine world. I have heard that the European Union has prohibited Chambourcin to be blended with traditional varieties. This seems to be a bit “variety racist”. But is it ironic considering the origins of many of Europe’s “traditonal” grape’s ancestry. As well as the fact that many “traditional” varieties are grafted onto American root stocks in order to be disease resistant.

Speaking of “traditional” grape varieties…. Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon… BUZZ Epic Fail. What most people DON’T know is that Cabernet Sauvignon (although naturally occuring) is a hybrid… of sorts. Originally from Bordeaux, and considered the noblest of grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon has long lived a lie. OOh I feel like a gossip columnist…Ever wondered why Cabernet Franc has blackcurrant , cassis, tabacco and raspberry flavours and so does Cabernet Sauvignon? Also, Cabernet Sauvignon sometimes has herbaceous greeness, and what other “Sauvignon” carries these green grassy flavours? You betcha! Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc had a dirty weekend in the 1600′s. And Cabernet Sauvignon is in fact a love child. And I blame the French. Well – they obviously knew all this time… they NAMED the grape. Perverts, probably set them up on a blind date. This grape family is truely dysfunctional with all this DNA testing.

Apparently Humans share up to a third of our DNA with a Lettuce, and in my reasoning, a lettuce and a grapevine can’t be that far apart genetically. Perhaps we have a close affiliation to wine because we share DNA. You can’t choose your family hey? But I admit… I am another Chardonnay Clone.

Cheers!

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Why did they leave all the hard-to-pronounce ones til last?

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 14, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

The wine industry is forever chortling about all the Verd-del-hoes, Mossel’s,  “Semillon”-Blancs, Card-on-nays and the occasional discussion on Cabernet Sauvignon as being a blend between the “two” grapes.  Once of my favourites has been the ever faithful “Can I please try the… V..Vi..Vo.. Voyager?”

I am sure the French are not so arrogant to expect the rest of the world to speak French. Afterall they do tolerate the Italian pronunciation of the “t” in Merlot. (But only barely) LOL

One of the more obscure queries in Cellar Door about the once rare Viognier’s origins came from a Frenchman. He had the gall to ask an Aussie whether Australia had named the grape? Her reply was said with the finest roll of the tongue she could afford: “Why on Earth would an Australian name a grape Viognier?” Wouldn’t an Aussie take the easier path? the Frenchman saw himself as somewhat an expert on French wine. He had no idea that the Rhone region uses Viognier and that his people had ignorantly almost sent the grape extinct in the past. Australia had only “borrowed” their Shiraz Viognier co-fermenting technique, and I am proud to name that Australian winemakers have conquerered the technique such as Clonakilla.

It makes me fantasise as to whether the romance and allure of all the fancy enunciations of wine terms would be lost if Australian slang took over more than a “Cab Sauv” or “Chardy”. Does the way we say a word value-add it in any way? Do we drink  “Sauv Blanc” because it makes our life better, out of convenience, fashion or for the plain cultural value?

Would we still appreciate the plonk if thats all it is? I believe there are great implications of this in the Australian market. Many consumers from what I know drink what they like or what market trends subconsciously tell them they like. But sometimes consumers are too afraid or intimidated to order the “Voyager”  in case they embarrass themselves. Many consumers have the money, the drive, the interest, the motive but lack some simple information – the key to ordering what they want. How on earth is that pronounced? Would the sommelier judge them if they didnt say Viognier right?

High praise goes to Yalumba here. Why? Not because they had the first commercial plantings of Viognier in Australia, and not because they were some of the first Viognier’s on the Supermarket Shelves. In an effort to improve the profile of Viognier as a variety, Yalumba drove a major Australian Campaign only a few years ago. On Billboards across Australia and in Magazines and other Print media, Viognier sprawled into the wine marketplace. Their efforts were noteworthy – their campaign simply read VEE-ON-YAY! Can I give three cheers to Yalumba’s marketing team? Hooray! They educated the consumer in a way the consumer wouldn’t even know. Yet, next time you see it on a wine list you can proudly ask for the “Vee-on-yay”.

I was once asked by a customer as to why they had never seen straight varietals like Petit Verdot, Chambourcin, or Viognier before. Plain and simple. Australia is a product of its motherlands and we are very traditional in our ways. If we didn’t mimic the old world wine countries in their styles, the market may not have bought our wines. It is only recently over the past decade or so that Australian Winemakers have taken themselves seriously enough to tackle entrepreneurial styles. Sparkling Red MUMMAH! Straight Petit Verdot OOHH! What is the wine world coming to? There are varietals coming out of the woodworks that I have not even tried before. I was very fond of Lowe Wine’s Tinja Roussanne, and I am very keen to get my hands on the mysteries of unknown varietals.

Cheers!

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Blossomed

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 14, 2010 | 2 Comments »

So I’ve started a new job in a totally different industry to my previous endeavours in wine. It’s been great, wine is now not my job, its my hobby. Although some could argue they could overlap somewhat. And even more disappointingly, gastronomy is no longer tax deductable!

In my past life, I was a jack of all trades, working for a small winery in marketing, wine clubs and wore many hats. One of these hats included tasting notes, writing about wines and assessing them against benchmarks. This is something I wish to continue via the blog. I also was an educator of sorts behind the bar. How can such a young person know so much? What course did you do? Well simply I listen, I learn, I observe and half of what I know comes naturally. Of course I went to school at 6 and was realised with the stark reality that noone else lived on a vineyard.

An honour I achieved in this position was a special credence of tradition:


Certain members of staff had been lucky enough to be labeled. I was fortunate enough to have my own Methode Champenoise. You could say I am bubbly, not cheap and showing some aged characters but then we’d have to get serious. It is a 1999 Pinot Noir Chardonnay Viognier and was absolutely divine for all its worth – fine delicate and intricate. Stone fruits from the Chardonnay and hints of Viognier enveloped by honey, nuttiness and toast.

After visiting my previous workplace today and having a great time catching up with friends (staff and customers), I was feeling a little nostalgic over my heavy glass of Viognier. Thus, this blog, an idea that I have had to make wine more approachable and help people see it the way I do has come to fruition. This little seed has “blossomed” and the blog is born.

Kathryn and Rhiannon

The double entendre here is that apparently since I have left the wine industry that I have also “blossomed”. Perhaps something  routine and everyday appears shiny and new when you make it fun again. I’m glad Wine can be this to me. And I hope that someone out there will share this with me.

Cheers!

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