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The Pokolbin Dry Red Labels: for Breathe Magazine

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 22, 2012 | Leave a Comment »

2012 Hunter Valley Heritage Award recipient ….

Rhiannon Stevens explores the significance of the Pokolbin Dry Red labels to the heritage of the Hunter Valley…

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Each year, prominent figures and landmarks of historical importance within the Hunter Valley wine industry are honoured at the Hunter Valley Legends and Wine Industry Awards. The Heritage Award recognises longstanding distinction and significant contribution to the Hunter Valley Wine Industry and is selected by the Living Legends. Following the commemoration of the Maurice O’Shea Labels in 2011, the 2012 Heritage Award pays tribute to Tulloch’s Pokolbin Dry Red labels.

The Tulloch family’s incredible entry to the wine industry was realised by accident in 1895 with John Younie Tulloch – a successful business man with interests in grazing, farming and the Branxton General Store. After reconciling a debt with J. Hungerford, John Younie received fourty-three acres at Pokolbin, some of which was under vine. With fervour, he rehabilitated the unattended Shiraz plantings at ‘Glen Elgin’ and managed to produce his first vintage within a year. John Younie’s preeminent enthusiasm and vigour assisted Tulloch’s in becoming the largest producers in the Hunter Valley by the 1920’s, and pioneers of the Hunter Valley wine industry.

Second generation Tulloch, Hector John first released the iconic Pokolbin Dry Red and Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin labels for Shiraz in 1952. The decision followed decades of selling their wines mainly in bulk to other prominent wine companies of the time – Hardys, Mildara, Penfolds, Lindemans, and even Maurice O’Shea. Changing Australian palates and consumer perceptions of table wines drove Hector Tulloch to establish his own label. The Pokolbin Dry Red labels depict two grape pickers carting a bunch of grapes, and are still used today and represent the status forged by the Tulloch brand. “The motif is representative of the scouts returning from the promised land bearing between them, a bunch of grapes, as referred to in the bible” says Jay Tulloch. “To the family, it symbolises our heritage and commitment to Hunter Valley wines”.
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Among their now extensive range of varietals, Tulloch have a proud tradition of producing medium bodied reds sporting the conservative finesse, complexity and charm that is renowned in the Hunter Valley’s regional terroir. The Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin style is individually refined whilst substantively true of the Hunter region. The famed 1954 Vintage Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin won first prizes for both Claret and Burgundy but also Best Red Wine of the Royal Sydney Show in 1956. The late Len Evans recalled in 2006, “At the end of the 60’s, Grange was the same price as Tulloch’s Private Bin” setting the benchmark for prestigious Australian wine.

Today the labels persist as a reminder of the esteem generated by early Pokolbin Dry Red wines of the 1950’s and 60’s, which assisted to raise the profile of the Hunter Valley. The success of the labels can be attributed to both the consistent quality of the wines, as well as the commercial availability in the marketplace. Successful early distribution in the 1950’s and 1960’s placed the Pokolbin Dry Red on every major Sydney wine list and on the lips of the consumer.

There is market appeal for traditional labels as we seek consistency in quality and the familiar. Sometimes we are attracted to the hype of an iconic brand or to relive nostalgia through a wine. The subjectivity of wine evokes emotional connections – it could be in the flavour, the aroma, the narrative, what we ate, who we shared it with or even the label. The acknowledgment of the Pokolbin Dry Red labels through the Heritage Award highlights the value of printed works to both place making and personal interpretation of our wine experiences.

Sandstone cairns are erected to mark Heritage Award recipients, as sponsored by Fay and Brian McGuigan. The Cairn unveiling will take place in 2013. Brian McGuigan states “the Cairn project is designed to recognise the people, places or objects that have nurtured and be crucial to the development and stature of the district”.

Today, the Tulloch tradition lives on under the auspices of third generation, Jay (J.Y), who confirms “the old Pokolbin Dry Red labels were a big part of bringing the Tulloch name to fame.” The fourth generation are preserving the Tulloch legacy through Christina and Jock who manage operations in the company. The Pokolbin Dry Red Labels have contributed to the ongoing success of the Tulloch company and are an unrelenting icon of the Hunter Valley.

Cheers -
Have a wonderful and safe holiday period
Rhiannon

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Summer 2012/3, Breathe Magazine – Issue 35, Summer 2012/3.

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The Maurice O’Shea Labels: for Breathe Magazine

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 24, 2012 | Leave a Comment »

2011 Hunter Valley Heritage Award recipient ….

Rhiannon Stevens steps back in Hunter history to the time of Maurice O’Shea

Maurice O'Shea

The Hunter Valley Heritage Award acknowledges landmark historical importance that has  influenced or significantly contributed to the Hunter Valley Wine Industry. Previous recipients have included historical landmarks of physical heritage. This year the importance of printed works to the place making of the Hunter Valley region have been acknowledged. The Maurice O’Shea Mount Pleasant Labels are classic collateral heritage endemic to the Hunter Valley, and symbolise our fine winemaking reputation and identity.

At the unveiling of the Heritage Cairn in March 2012, Hunter Valley Legend and sponsor of the Cairn, Brian McGuigan explained “the Cairn project is designed to recognise the people, places or objects that have nurtured and been crucial to the development and stature of the district, so it is fitting that we salute Maurice O’Shea and McWilliams”. Maurice O’Shea founded his vineyard “Mount Pleasant” in 1921, and during the depression forged an enduring relationship with the McWilliam family.  Whilst 2012 marks the 90th Vintage at Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley, it also honoured the 135th anniversary of winemaking for the McWilliam family.

Maurice O’Shea’s leadership was instrumental in positioning the Hunter Valley as a premium wine region. Brian McGuigan remarked “Maurice O’Shea did something special. He had something really outstanding in his capacity to recognise the certain traits of grapes and wine”. A pioneer of early Australian winemaking, Maurice O’Shea literally changed his field. Produced in a era where fortified wines were the standard – flagship styles of Shiraz and Semillon were championed without electricity, machine-driven cooling systems or any of the modern winemaking equipment used today. Maurice O’Shea’s wines were a testament to his vision and skill as a viticulturist and winemaker. Experimental blending, styles developed for the market and sophisticated wines with prudent alcohol levels were O’Shea’s specialties. The mastery of his craft is evident with the refined intensity and longevity of his wines, many of O’Shea’s wines outlived the man. O’Shea’s table wines showed creative artistry and have left a lasting impression on the world as icons of the Hunter Valley, and set the standard for Australian wines at their best.

The Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association has formed valuable links with the University of Newcastle to collect and share historical narratives of our region’s winemaking past. Julie McIntyre from the University of Newcastle presents the notion that “wine is a creative field in which art and science combine. As O’Shea blended his wines, he blended together the idea of wine and it’s place in history”. Julie’s representation of Maurice O’Shea provides insight into Maurice O’Shea’s daily work. Describing him as one of the true romantics of wine, Julie read from a letter penned by O’Shea on 15 February 1924:

“We expect to start the grape picking on Wednesday next though at this moment it seems hardly possible for us to be ready in time … We are having some heavy downpours of rain just now and it seems that we are to expect a wet vintage. This is a nightmare to look forward to as the ground is so soddy and heavy that the loaded carts often get bogged, or even overturned, and the horses constantly lose their foothold; besides it is heavy work for the animals and knocks them up terribly. There seems to be some trouble in securing grape pickers this year. It is really unaccountable as many pits [mines] are idle and there should be more children than ever”. The account lists the hardships and tribulations that   we no longer face with modern machinery and vineyard practices – although wet harvests are still a challenge and mechanical harvesters have replaced child labour! It seems Maurice O’Shea’s romantic side didn’t end with his passion for wine. His diaries and letters have also provided a valuable account of O’Shea’s affections for Marcia Fuller, whom he later married. Maurice O’Shea on all accounts was a true romantic with the sign off from the same letter:

“My Dearest – I hope everything at home is quite satisfactory and that you are keeping your promise of looking after your dear little self so that I shall have lovely rosy cheeks and sweet red lips to kiss … Loving you more than ever – love always, Your Maurice”.

“History has made the Hunter Valley so important internationally,” said Hunter Valley Legend Brian McGuigan, “the wine that comes from here; it’s style and it’s quality has separated us from our peers in this country and abroad”. Maurice O’Shea produced remarkable and memorable wines during his lifetime, inspiring many in his industry. It is reassuring to note that many generations of the McWilliams followed in O’Shea’s footsteps. Don McWilliam, fourth generation in the McWilliams family and patron for the Maurice O’Shea Mount Pleasant Labels, joined O’Shea to learn the craft from the 1954 Vintage. Sadly, O’Shea passed away shortly after in 1956. Today, Scott McWilliam is senior winemaker at Mount Pleasant representing the sixth generation of this pioneering wine family.

Cheers for the next Century of winemaking at Mount Pleasant!

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Spring 2012, Breathe Magazine – Issue 34, Spring 2012.

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The Ben Ean Still: for Breathe Magazine

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 13, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

The Ben Ean Still – 2011 Heritage Award winner ….

Hunter Valley Living Legend Karl Stockhausen shares the history & stories of this wonderful Hunter Valley icon with Rhiannon Stevens.

Each year in the Hunter Valley, we celebrate and acknowledge excellence with our Wine Industry Awards and induction of our Hunter Valley Legends. In 2011, the Hunter Valley Heritage Award was presented to the Ben Ean Winery Old Still House.

Despite being formally recognised as having integral historical importance to our region, little is known as to the origins of the Still at Lindemans Ben Ean. It is believed the Still was already in place when the Ben Ean property on McDonalds Road Pokolbin was purchased from John McDonald by Dr Henry Lindeman in 1912. Who better to ask about this icon than the amazing Hunter Valley Legend – Karl Stockhausen?

So what is a Still?
A still is a permanent apparatus used to heat and then cool liquids to condense and capture vapours. The Ben Ean Still is a simple Pot Still, with a single chamber heated by a steam boiler piped from the Ben Ean Winery.

The purpose of the Ben Ean Still was to collect alcohol and produce Brandy. Pot Stills only give one condensation due to having one pot. The first distillation results in low concentrations and the process is repeated to get higher concentrations. When Karl had used the still in the early 1960′s the first distillation would succeed, however secondary distillations would frustratingly lose alcohol in the process. As the Still is made of copper, the natural properties of Copper remove sulfur from the alcohol. In doing so, the metal eventually corrodes. The carry-over to the condenser column metals were so eroded that alcohol escaped. A Customs Officer informed Karl that they may have to pay duty on the alcohol losses and Lindemans Head Office quickly replaced them with new ones! The Pot itself and the Condenser are of the original Still.

When Karl Stockhausen first arrived at Ben Ean in 1955 there were large stores of Brandy from the Still. Karl recalls being appointed Winemaker and Manager of Lindemans in 1959, and using the Still to recover losses from left over grapes after pressing, through distillation. The labour intensive process was fraught with losses and by the early 1960′s, Karl had convinced his directors to retire the Still. By 1964 the Still was no longer in use and Karl could invest his passions into making Hunter River Riesling (Semillon).

Karl is cautious to assume the Brandy from the Still was used to fortify wines such as Port or Muscat styles. This is because it would have been difficult to produce high concentrations of alcohol (Ethanol) used in Fortified Wines. In order for this, the Still would have required a rectifying column which separates the different alcohols respective of their different boiling points. This means that the Still at Ben Ean was likely there to satisfy a personal preference for Brandy consumption.

Is it a taste for Brandy which has paved the way for Australian wine?
Until the 1960′s the majority of Australian wine on the market was fortified in the style of Port or Sherry. Perhaps it was the shortage of beer and spirits during the second world war which encouraged the consumption of fortified and table wines. Alternatively the appeal of a sweet, rich wine with brandied complexities to an early wine drinker may have begun the evolution of Australian palates. A preference to Brandy may have lead to a taste for fortified wines, which evolved into curiosity for table wines.

A growth in Australian wine sales from 1960 owes to greater popularity in styles such as the semi-sweet Ben Ean Moselle, enjoyed characteristically of the era with an Alpine Lite! Karl Stockhausen blushes as he tells this iconic wine of the 60′s wine boom was first made at Ben Ean in 1956, but was not yet what the market wanted. Later, the market became enamoured by the fruit friendly forwardness of the Ben Ean Moselle. Many a wine drinker owe their interest and evolution of their own palates to the entry-level Ben Ean Moselle, which became the biggest selling white wine for over a decade.

In the late 1960′s dry red wine sales were greater than whites. Karl recalls 1965 Vintage as peculiarly dry and hot whilst still producing an unusually large crop. This meant all open fermenters were full, leaving none to take the quickly ripening fruit. They managed to leave off harvesting the Shiraz it until well into March. When they finally harvested, the sugar content in the fruit was exponentially high, leading to high alcohol percentages and worried Winemakers. At the end of Vintage, Karl explains the Lindemans directors came to the Hunter Valley to taste the wines. “They were the best range of Hunter Reds they had ever seen”. Top shelf styles, Karl describes as “fabulous wines” all still revered today. Karl proudly tells me that recently a bottle from 1965 broke the record, selling for almost $2000.

Other influential styles that Karl Stockhausen has been involved with include the iconic Hunter River Riesling, which was an alias for one of the three Semillon styles he produced at Lindemans. The next trend, for shoulder pads and oaked Chardonnay emerged in the 80′s.

But what is it about these wine styles that give them decade long demand? Karl’s theory rests on The Obvious. Literally. Karl explains, “It was not the flavour of Chardonnay but the obvious oak that made it popular. Sauvignon Blanc, although opposing in style also carries obviousness of character.” Karl explains that wine drinkers are searching for characters they can recognise in their wines. For fortified wines it was the Brandy base, Moselle was sweet supple fruit, Chardonnay was buttery vanillin oak. For Sauvignon Blanc it’s about gooseberries, crispness and green notes. But it’s more than often too hot to grow this variety in the Hunter Valley. McGuigan Wines have now announced their market friendly home grown competitor, affectionately named The Semillon Blanc, using our Hunter Valley reliable and faithful staple, Semillon. Karl describes this wine as a “modern late picked version of Semillon, with full varietal flavour up front, something that lends well to current palates”.

So what for the future, as we all become more familiar with the wine world and more informed about personal preferences of style. What wines will be fashionable? I am a product of the 1980′s and can’t go past a good Chardonnay, but I’ve always said drink what you like. (That way no one has to share!)

Take the opportunity to go back to our roots and enjoy the Hunter Valley’s heritage Ben Ean Still for a wine tasting at Lindemans.

Cheers!

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Summer 2011-12, Breathe Magazine – Issue 31, Summer 2011.

So from here I say bon voyage, as we Jetset across the world for an amazing trip of a lifetime!

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Something Fishy: Breathe Magazine Edition

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 5, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

Breathe Magazine requested for me to rewrite my original “Something Fishy” article for their Hunter Valley Wine Show edition.

Something fishy… What’s the Story of Fish in Wine?

I often get asked why there are warnings on wine labels pertaining to fish, milk and egg products. Aren’t the basic ingredients of wine just grapes and yeast? Sometimes we need a little help to optimise our basic ingredients.

In the Fermentation process, yeast converts the grape sugars (glucose and fructose) into alcohol (and carbon dioxide). Yeast can be found naturally on the skins of the grapes, or it can be introduced. The type of yeast can also affect the flavour, aroma, texture and body of the final wine.

The winemaker may also choose to put the wine through secondary fermentation. Malolactic Fermentation (or Malo for short – pronounced “May-Low”) would usually occur after the primary ferment. During Malo, Lactic Acid Bacteria get busy converting Malic acid from the grapes into Lactic acid in the wine. Lactic acid is not as sharp and acidic to taste, resulting in a wine that has a smoother mouth feel. Malo can result in a buttery, creamy Chardonnay, but if not done skilfully can end up causing faults in the wine.

It is a sad ending for the yeast as after primary ferment, it dies. Unfortunately, the yeast is a casualty of our consumption. Making matters worse, all the residual and dead yeast cells or “lees” are now floating around in our wine. There may also be natural proteins, bacteria and other particles suspended in the wine. I don’t like “floaties” in my Shiraz or Chardonnay. What is the solution to this problem?

Winemakers use a fining agent to flocculate at various stages during wine production, ensuring your Hunter Valley Semillon is crystal clear. Clarity, brightness and transparency are important for both the wine judge, and us wine drinkers.

Flocculation: [verb] forced removal of sediment from a liquid through addition of a flocculating agent. Gravity controlled flocculation precipitates solids within a liquid.

Now for the science lesson: as the diagram suggests, the fining agent is added to the top of the tank, weighs down on the dead yeast cells (and other “floaties”) and drags everything to the bottom of the tank where it can be siphoned off.

Fining agents can improve haze, phenolics, astringency, colour, flavour and even off-odour in wine. Therefore, fining is a process which results in a wine created with finesse, which may also have attractive qualities not present in unfined wine.

Stabilisation can be used to prevent wine faults caused by environmental changes to temperature, humidity and movement. Unstable wines can be subject to haze, tartrates and premature ageing. For example, Cold stabilisation encourages liquid tartaric acid to solidify. “Wine Diamonds” (tartrate crystals) form when the wine is very cold. They develop in small crystals or long shards and can be removed prior to bottling. Sometimes these form in the finished bottle – they may look like glass but are completely harmless.

So where does fish come into this? Not to worry – winemakers are certainly not throwing seafood medley into the tank!

Below are some common fining agents:

Isinglass (pronounced eye-sin-glass) is a gelatin derived from the air bladder of a fish – especially and traditionally the sturgeon. Isinglass is expensive, delicate, will not strip flavour and often used with white wines.

Gelatin has been used to fine wine since Roman civilisation. It can remove harsh tannins, bitter flavours, and improve astringency.

Casein. Casein is an active protein in skim milk or powdered skim milk. It can be used to nullify astringency and bitterness in white wines, sometimes lightening the colour.

PVPP or polyvinyl-polypyrrolidone is a synthetic polymer chain that behaves like a natural protein.

Albumin is the fining agent relating to eggs. Only the whites are used (sometimes powdered) – so never sunny side up! This is usually reserved for red wines and believe it or not it’s only 1-2 egg whites for 100 Litres of wine.

There are natural proteins present in grapes that may cause a cloudy haze if the wine is subject to higher temperatures. Bentonite is a naturally occurring clay or mineral derivative that stabilises the wine, preventing cloudy protein haze in the wine.

Did you know? Bulls blood was commonly used as a fining agent in many European countries including France, until 1997 when the EU banned this practice as a measure to curb Mad Cow’s Disease.

If I’m allergic to seafood do I have to avoid wine?

No. Not even with wines fined with Isinglass. The protein in fish which commonly causes allergic reactions is called parvalbumin. It’s not normally found in isinglass.

Modern manufacture of isinglass ensures no residual parvalbumin remains. The European Food Safety Commission led the way and granted isinglass exemption from allergen labelling laws. In 2009, Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) also granted food labelling exemption for isinglass in beer and wine. Even if trace parvalbumin snuck into the wine with the isinglass, it would settle with the isinglass when flocculated and be removed in the filtration process.

This doesn’t sound kosher!

Well technically, isinglass that is derived from a sturgeon isn’t. However isinglass from a kosher fish is. Other un-kosher fining agents include gelatin, casein.

I’m a vegetarian /vegan?

A lot of wines on the market are still unfined or use vegetarian-friendly fining agents. Synthetic fining agents are increasingly popular, and Bentonite is one of the most common fining agents. It is important to consider that some wines and many beers may not be suitable.

Vegans can look for wines that boast “unfined” or “unfiltered” or Bentontite/clay. Some wineries are cleverly labelling for vegetarian and vegan consumption determined by their winemaking processes. Just because some wines are labelled as vegetarian-friendly doesn’t mean that the wines that don’t specify aren’t already suitable for vegetarians or vegans. Continue enjoying Hunter Valley wines and if you are concerned – read the label and ask the friendly folks at the winery.

Testing has shown that there is limited capacity for wines to absorb fining agents and when they have been detected, only in negligent proportions. Fining is considered more natural and delicate a process than filtration which can rapidly strip a wine of colour and flavour. It’s also an important part of traditional winemaking practice that Australian winemakers have inherited from our old world wine countries.

So now you know more about the processes behind some of our proud award winning wines– celebrate quality Hunter Valley wines and appreciate the complexity of the science and skill it took to produce them.

Cheers to that!

 

This article was published in Breathe Magazine – Issue 30, Spring 2011  “Hunter Valley Wine Show edition” – see link.

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Too many Cooks spoil the broth? Not at Cooks Lot

Posted in Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 26, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

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Cooks Lot is one of those under-rated classic labels, unique to country New South Wales. A smaller scaled family operation, Cooks Lot wines are indicative of their origins whilst showing unique character and flair that only comes from small production and passionate wine making.

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If you haven’t yet visited Mudgee you’re overdue and I do not tolerate tardiness! Mudgee is one of the best kept secrets of the West, to which we owe Australia’s first Chardonnay plantings (hail Mary!) and some of the best robust reds on this side of the border! Neighbouring Orange produces some of Australia’s finest Cool Climate, delicate styled and fashionable wines.

Cooks Lot capitalises on the best of both of these worlds and produces some stealthy, straight forward and first class Australian wines. Each wine I’ve poured under the Cooks Lot label has been individually expressive and full of personality. It is often with the smaller wineries that you find the bigger rewards and the friendlier faces. Time to make the pilgrimage to Mudgee….


2009 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
With Australian wines like this, why do we bother with New Zealand? A bright straw colour, this Sauvignon Blanc has a delicate finesse. It’s gentle, restrained and refined; yet fresh, ripe and youthful. Lively tropical notes such as Kiwi and Pineapple start at the front of the palate and mellow into clean, crisp, zesty citrus. This ripe lemony acidity is a lovely way to balance the palate, with the nice surprise of a gentle tartaric buzz. With more aeration, the typical grassy undertones peep through.

A perfect wine for a hot afternoon, some fresh prawns and close friends on the verandah. Alternatively I think this Sauvignon Blanc is just yearning for Asian flavours, could definitely handle the heat and would be ideal paired with Thai. Yum!

2010 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 11.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Quite a lifted bouquet, fresh fruit fills the air as I fill my glass. Pineapple on the nose- as if i was chopping it fresh- skin and all. The palate is lean with acidity, and crispness develops into fresh squeezed, pink lemonade. As per varietal definition, an underlying green character lingers with slight herbaceousness, reminding me of tomato leaf.

2011 Orange Sauvignon Blanc – 12.1% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lighter colour than previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc has the pleasant juicy aroma of peeling an orange, down to the pith. The greenness reminds me of morning dew on fresh cut grass, but this develops into green bananas. From here, kiwi fruit envelopes the palate, leaving a tropical mouth feel.

2008 Mudgee Riesling – 11.3% al/vol RRP $19.99
Straw coloured with lime hues, this is a Riesling showing good depth. It starts off friendly and mellow, good varietal character, soft steely tones and just when you think you can trust it- a fresh, zesty acidity sweeps the palate. It is this fine acidity which makes it a clean and interesting wine. Kiwi fruit and fresh passionfruit develop into limes, and tart citrus – like tangerines. The bouquet is delicate with blossoms. A wine to cellar for a few more years to continue the mystery of mellow tones and surprising high notes.

2010 Mudgee Riesling – 12% al/vol RRP $19.99
A lovely surprise as this is different from it’s 2008 cousin. A more aromatic wine with greater fruit intensity, is wine shows intense passionfruit characters and green pear on the palate, with a zesty citrus finish. The aroma is playful with spectacular purple passionfruit flowers and a candied toffee apple. Having tasted this wine I’m craving a salad of figs, walnuts and blue cheese. The fullness of the palate and clean fruit could take this just nicely!

2011 Orange Pinot Gris – 11.8% al/vol RRP $19.99
This wine is arrogant – and rightly so. A fragrant style wine, a nose of nashi pears, lifted kiwi notes and a floral yet green aroma reminiscent of delicate geranium petals. A clean palate with fresh acidity that leaves the palate refreshed, but if you pay attention, gentle minerally characters sneak through. There is more to this wine than meets first appearances. A sweet nutty character (almonds or cashews) is a pleasant backdrop to the palate and bouquet. A lovely wine with interesting flavours that I would serve with breaded chicken and creamy mustard sauce. Yummy!

2007 Mudgee Chardonnay – 14.6% al/vol RRP $19.99
As you can see, I take my Chardonnay VERY seriously!
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I’m liking what I see – the time this wine has been cellared has afforded this Chardonnay a slight golden colour. And to me – gold never goes out of fashion! The palate is well rounded but still lean with good acidity. The fruit – rock melons, honeydew melon, a little citrus (mandarin), and a firm peach sliced cleanly. The finish is where the oak shows through without dominating the palate. This Chardonnay is not aggressive and would work quite cooperatively with most foods. I’m having it with a chicken caesar salad. What will you enjoy this with? Oh and I think it can be cellared a few more years, go for gold!

2008 Mudgee Rose – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Pretty in pink? Rose coloured glasses? This Rose reminds me of strawberry coulis and Granny Smith apples. It’s very ripe berry fruit flavours are followed by clean acidity and a fun little spritz. Nothing too complicated here, so perfect for when you’ve had a complicated day. Best served super-chilled, it’s lovely and refreshing and doesn’t even need food – only friends.

2009 Mudgee & Orange Pinot Noir – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
Bright and darker than I expected (probably that Mudgee proportion!), excellent varietal definition, strawberries and cherries stretch to the imagination with savoury notes. The nose reminds me of a barnyard, slightly dusty, straw lain, but then the fruit dominates. A medium bodied red with firm tannin and a splash of white pepper, a good length of palate is supported by oak. To serve with this Pinot Noir, I have been eyeing off that free-range duck in the supermarket, but otherwise you could try pork. The tannin will cut through the fat, and the fruit will come to the absolute fore of the palate.

2008 Mudgee Merlot – 13.5% al/vol RRP $19.99
Every woman is waiting for something dark, rich and handsome to come into their lives. And here it is ladies. Wait no longer!
Blackberries, and stewed fruits of the forest, the nose is dominated by the charred spiciness of American oak. I first thought dairy milk chocolate, but it developed into espresso – so why not have both? A dark brick red colour, this Merlot has a well rounded, but mellow palate. This has obviously Mudgee origins – having that lovely Mudgee “mud” depth, without being overbearing. A good match for that joint of lamb I intend to roast later.

2008 Mudgee Shiraz – 14% al/vol RRP $19.99
This Shiraz is a cowboy of our Wild West – Mudgee. Straight away it lasso’s you in with American oak vigour, and locks you in a dual with the fastest guns of the west (impressive tannin structure and good fruit balance). Packed with aroma and flavour of Cinnamon, and Christmas meat pies, this wine deserves to be in the lock-up (cellared) for a few years before you grace it with good quality rare-medium beef.

2010 Orange Botrytis Chardonnay- 8.5% al/vol RRP $25.00
Not surprisingly very low yielding, this nectar of the gods has dried apricot, dried pears and honey characters. The colour is no less than 22 carats! A fresh acidity finishes the palate with glace pineapple, and the crunch of a toffee apple. It would be unforgiving to try to compete with this wine with a dessert, so let’s pull out the Roquefort (if you’re paying!) otherwise good blue cheese or hard bitey cheddar and pate, and a selection of fresh, dried fruits, yum yum yum.

Thank you to Cooks Lot for letting me have a closer look at their range. It has been an absolute pleasure to browse their range. I will definitely not hesitate to stop in and visit next time I’m in town. I hope you do the same.
Cooks Lot wines are exclusive – but only a delivery away. For ordering information, please visit www.cookslot.com.au.
Cooks Lot produce good quality wines that are excellent value for money.

They can all be purchased on their website (www.cookslot.com.au) or at any decent independent bottleshop.

Cheers

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Bring back the romance

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 28, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

The subject of wine has allure, fable and mystery interwoven within its being. The practice of buying wine should also be a romantic experience, right?

Imagine this:

Driving slowly through the entrance, you’ve been looking forward to this all day. You steer the car into the next available park. It’s busier than you expected, nevertheless you stretch out wide and inhale that fresh air. You’re in no hurry and take in the views and scenery and a tractor whizzes past. There are other people making their way back to their cars with bottles and cartons, chattering happily. Ahhh! This is the life! You saunter leisurely over to enter the sales room, and you stop to read the sign above your head:

DAN MURPHY’S.  What?!

Sorry, did I forget to mention that tractor was towing supermarket trolleys?

We’ve all done it – made the not-so-romantic trip to our local bottleshop. But when did we choose convenience over romance?

A bottle shop offers a diversity of varietals, styles, regions, labels. However, there are more and more overseas wines competing with our home-grown beauties on a bottleshop shelf. Why are we buying New Zealand wines, but preaching about buying Australian oranges? And talk about killing the romance. If my hubby brought home a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, I’d have to say “Not tonight honey. I’ve got a headache.”

A cellar door is never going to offer you 4c off your fuel, or ask for Fly Buys. But when you open that majestic Hunter Valley Shiraz, you’ll recall that story the sales person at the Cellar Door told you. You’ll boast to your friends about how the block was originally drafted as a Graveyard, how the 2007 Vintage was particularly good for the Hunter Valley. And that’s if you even want to share these quality wines with your friends!

Like many people, I have two wine racks. The farcical yet innocent frontline display of “quaffers” that can be viewed by visitors; and the hidden delights of the never-never wine rack that select few will ever patronise. The two collections tend to also be divided in their contents – the public viewing contains mostly bottleshop purchases and the secret vault hides most of my special occasion/’touch and you die’ wines. The rationale? Sometimes you loved a wine so much you just want to keep it all to yourself – a monogamous relationship. Having to pour another glass for a guzzling mate would just be sacrilege.

And that’s just it. Cellar Door wines tend to have that special quintessential romance that is just lacking in a bottle shop purchase. They are not just fermented grapes in a glass vestibule. Cellar door wines have the essence of terroir (place), handcrafted components lovingly melded into a distinctive product. A bottleshop purchase  is just Everyday Rewards points and a standard wine that you’ll consume and forget within 24 hours. At a Hunter Cellar Door your wine will be love at first… taste. Cellar Door Only wines are often smaller production, higher quality and in more interesting styles than monosyllabic and barcoded supermarket wines. This is where winemakers bring their love to the table, their expressions of taste or specialty. The cellar door is where winemakers spruce their talents and at the same moment, share their passion, stories and infatuation with you.

It is this cultural capital that you collect as you venture from Jan at Gartelmann to Kathryn at Wandin Valley and back to see Sharon at Leaves & Fishes for a fabulous lunch. In a day you could learn that your favourite variety is Viognier, especially with French oak, and that you’re not a fan of wild yeast wines but are in love with a good Charmat Chambourcin.

And even better? You’ll have learnt the lingo, pronounced everything perfectly and understood what it all meant.  Brad at IGA Liquor has never been this insightful. Not only will you have a wonderful time, you’ll be more popular at the water cooler on Monday morning, crooning about lovely Hunter wines and the even more fascinating Hunter gossip.

So if you need an excuse for your next weekend to the Hunter Valley just remember that it’s all in the Romance. It’s not about the sentimentality of a naughty weekend in the Hunter Valley, nor is it the beautiful and relaxing scenery or the marvellous dining opportunities (those are just the bonuses)! It’s in the nostalgia of a great cellar door experience. Besides, a great bottle of Hunter Valley Chardonnay is better than a postcard for those pokey neighbours you are always trying to out-do.

(And if you can’t make the trip – search out Hunter produced wines at your local and go to the festivals – it will keep you going until romance can flourish once again!)

This article was published in Breathe magazine – Autumn 2011 ” Hunter Valley Food and Wine Month Editon”.

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Petersons Wines 2005 Mudgee Region Durif

Posted in Wine Knowledge, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 5, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

Durif… A hybridised variety, named after the gentleman who founded this cross pollination of Syrah (Shiraz) and Peloursin. I know about Shiraz so Peloursin must be some damned dark black grape with a super thick skin and it’s own theme song. Also known by the pseudonym of Petite Sirah. If you want to know more about hybrids, see my previous article “What’s in a Name? Mules of the Wine World.“

Most Durif’s are  intense to say the least. Most widespreadly planted in Victoria and most revered from Rutherglen, Durif is one of the few varietals that absolutely benefits from 10 Years  + cellaring in Australia. Say what you like about Australian red wine, but Australia is hot. (Duh.) Heat ripens fruit, ripe fruit is full of sugar. Sugar converts to alcohol when a yeast gets involved. And in Australia we have no problem ripening unless we have a freak hail storm and leaves get damaged. So – quite often, because of the riper fruit and in-turn softer tannins/ less acidity, our red wines are generally more approachable at a younger age – with Durif being an exception.

Petersons Wines have been producing a Mudgee grown Durif since the early 2000′s. Don’t think Rutherglen – Glass of Cherries here. Whilst these characters are underlying, the “Mudgee Mud” seeps through nicely – often lending to an earthier and interestingly intense style. I love Mudgee for reds and for many years, Mudgee has been underrated.

Looking at the colour, its dark and brooding. The wine sticks to the glass with these sexy long legs that look like they go on forever. Even though it is 2005 Vintage the colour still displays a hint of youth with this purple tint amongst the black. In the light, it shines luminous ruby. Gary Reed’s reds are always dark,  full fruit flavoured, lovely textured and carry a signature of cedary oak. This is no exception.

On first approach, the palate is rich and grippy. I am loving the saturated berry/ plummy fruits that coat the palate. There is a spiciness seeping through on the palate, and black pepper on the nose. The texture is of chalky tannins dancing with American Oak. The bouquet is vibrant with Black Cherries (fresh and tinned!) and Black Forest crumble. The biscuity feel is definately there -  and the whole wine is reminicient of Cherry Ripe: cherries, dark chocolate and sweet coconut.

What to eat it with? Well the peppery value means any kind of beef would definately work, but there is enough tannin alongside intense flavoured fruit that it could cut through the fattiness of lamb. Durif also works tremendously with Vintage Cheddar or strong flavoured cheeses.

This is the kind of big red that rules out brushing the teeth, I can feel the red wine tattoo coming on! Let it set for 2 hours before brushing! But even my hubby thinks that this Durif is worth fuzzy teeth for one night!!

14.5% al/vol, Cork seal. Cellar door and online sales. $26 per bottle.

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What’s in a Name? Mules of the Wine World.

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 20, 2010 | 4 Comments »

Hybrids. What do we know about them?

Cheap to run, fuel saving, energy efficient… Disease Resistant?!

Hybrids of the wine world are those single varieties which are genetic result of two or more other grape varieties. But how prominent are hybridised varieties in the Australian Market? They might be more common than you think.

Is Chambourcin the mule of the wine world? A favourite amongst hybridised wine producing grape varieties, Chambourcin has held its own through being a deep coloured wine with intense aromatic flavour, and not having any “foxy” flavour carried by many hybrids. Along with its intense colour it is interestingly one of the worlds only Pink-Pulped varieties. It is also favourably resistant to fungal diseases – a reason it has become popular to the Australian climate. It also makes a fabulous sparkling wine – and we all know how much Australia loves Sparkling Red. So what’s wrong with a mule if it pulls the cart the same… if not better than a horse?

But would a wine by any other name still taste as… sweet? Chambourcin has only been available since 1963, and was developed by Johannes Seyve. Once upon a time, Chambourcin was named Johannes Seyve 26-205 and I once read, “Chambourcin” is also the name of a cheese. Perhaps its excellent pairing with cheese lead to the naming? Unfortunately for us, Johannes never wrote anything down when he was cross-pollinating with his paintbrush (forcing flowers to fornicate can really be a distracting process). Johannes defiled up to 8 vitis ancestries to produce Chambourcin and unfortunately for us, later died with no records of the official parentage (and we do hope it was of natural causes and not owed to Chambourcin). Mystery is not always romantic, but the grape was born from a native North American grape, and French vines in the Loire Valley. Chambourcin still remains a bastard of sorts not knowing who its many fathers are.

Perhaps it comes back to the naming of the grape. If its pseudonym sounds traditional - a hybrid is more easily accepted by the Old World. Take for example Durif. In Australia more often than not – we call it by the name of the man that invented it. The Durif variety originated in 1880 when François Durif (a botanist) founded a cross of Syrah and Peloursin. Egotistically he named it after himself – but hey who’s judging? – I had a wine named after me too. The point of the story, is that the majority of Petite Sirah plantings can be DNA proven to be Durif. Same Diff huh? Apparently this happens alot.

Of  course Zinfandel‘s fairy tale story arouses the continual arguement of nature versus nurture. Zinfandel has been genetically proven to be the same grape as Primitivo of Italy and Crljenak Kaštelanski of Croatia. (yeah dont ask me how to say that last one). So what happened? Separated at birth, given different names, regional terroir and traditons change the style of wine produced and we just forgot that it went on a holiday under an alias? Did they not check the passport? Keep in mind, this example is not a hybrid, but each is a clone of the same variety. Which one is Molly?

Australia (and many new world wine producing countries) tend to be kinder to hybridised varietals than the old wine world. I have heard that the European Union has prohibited Chambourcin to be blended with traditional varieties. This seems to be a bit “variety racist”. But is it ironic considering the origins of many of Europe’s “traditonal” grape’s ancestry. As well as the fact that many “traditional” varieties are grafted onto American root stocks in order to be disease resistant.

Speaking of “traditional” grape varieties…. Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon… BUZZ Epic Fail. What most people DON’T know is that Cabernet Sauvignon (although naturally occuring) is a hybrid… of sorts. Originally from Bordeaux, and considered the noblest of grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon has long lived a lie. OOh I feel like a gossip columnist…Ever wondered why Cabernet Franc has blackcurrant , cassis, tabacco and raspberry flavours and so does Cabernet Sauvignon? Also, Cabernet Sauvignon sometimes has herbaceous greeness, and what other “Sauvignon” carries these green grassy flavours? You betcha! Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc had a dirty weekend in the 1600′s. And Cabernet Sauvignon is in fact a love child. And I blame the French. Well – they obviously knew all this time… they NAMED the grape. Perverts, probably set them up on a blind date. This grape family is truely dysfunctional with all this DNA testing.

Apparently Humans share up to a third of our DNA with a Lettuce, and in my reasoning, a lettuce and a grapevine can’t be that far apart genetically. Perhaps we have a close affiliation to wine because we share DNA. You can’t choose your family hey? But I admit… I am another Chardonnay Clone.

Cheers!

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Allandale 2004 McLaren Vale Shiraz

Posted in Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 18, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

A darker maroon coloured wine, which is showing some maturation with rosewood reflections. Rich and almost jammy, the palate displays stewed fruits including plums and rhubarb. Blackcurrants mingle with spice and its all a bit like Christmas mince pies. Tannins have lightly settled with bottle maturation and even for me – careful cellaring.  Although I daresay it should go down longer. But what can I say? I like the kick in the teeth of a younger wine.

On the nose – layers of oak reminiscent of pencil shavings and sawdust. These mingle with spicy savoury herbaceous expressions a bit like green capsicum. The last whiff comes across with more oxygenation and this time its sweet. I want to say plums, but really it reminds me of poached pears, kind of aromatic.

Developing into a lovely, approachable wine – attenuated yet agreeable in structure. The finish is long, fleshy yet mellowed. Cellar for a further 3+ years if you can wait that long.

14% al/vol, screw seal, I acquired this after a Christmas time wine swap a few years back. 2008 McLaren Vale Shiraz is currently listed as $25 per bottle.

I really appreciate vineyards that source from out of region. Some people are quite offended by breaking the old fashioned laws of appelation but I think its sensible – especially for the Hunter Valley where every second red crop is blatantly ruined by being too close to the coast. More than half of the wine produced in the Hunter Valley is grown out of region and most people wouldn’t know. Some find it hard to accept this.  EMBRACE REGIONALITY but dont be a regional snob!

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