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Posts Tagged ‘South Australia’

The Maurice O’Shea Labels: for Breathe Magazine

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 24, 2012 | Leave a Comment »

2011 Hunter Valley Heritage Award recipient ….

Rhiannon Stevens steps back in Hunter history to the time of Maurice O’Shea

Maurice O'Shea

The Hunter Valley Heritage Award acknowledges landmark historical importance that has  influenced or significantly contributed to the Hunter Valley Wine Industry. Previous recipients have included historical landmarks of physical heritage. This year the importance of printed works to the place making of the Hunter Valley region have been acknowledged. The Maurice O’Shea Mount Pleasant Labels are classic collateral heritage endemic to the Hunter Valley, and symbolise our fine winemaking reputation and identity.

At the unveiling of the Heritage Cairn in March 2012, Hunter Valley Legend and sponsor of the Cairn, Brian McGuigan explained “the Cairn project is designed to recognise the people, places or objects that have nurtured and been crucial to the development and stature of the district, so it is fitting that we salute Maurice O’Shea and McWilliams”. Maurice O’Shea founded his vineyard “Mount Pleasant” in 1921, and during the depression forged an enduring relationship with the McWilliam family.  Whilst 2012 marks the 90th Vintage at Mount Pleasant in the Hunter Valley, it also honoured the 135th anniversary of winemaking for the McWilliam family.

Maurice O’Shea’s leadership was instrumental in positioning the Hunter Valley as a premium wine region. Brian McGuigan remarked “Maurice O’Shea did something special. He had something really outstanding in his capacity to recognise the certain traits of grapes and wine”. A pioneer of early Australian winemaking, Maurice O’Shea literally changed his field. Produced in a era where fortified wines were the standard – flagship styles of Shiraz and Semillon were championed without electricity, machine-driven cooling systems or any of the modern winemaking equipment used today. Maurice O’Shea’s wines were a testament to his vision and skill as a viticulturist and winemaker. Experimental blending, styles developed for the market and sophisticated wines with prudent alcohol levels were O’Shea’s specialties. The mastery of his craft is evident with the refined intensity and longevity of his wines, many of O’Shea’s wines outlived the man. O’Shea’s table wines showed creative artistry and have left a lasting impression on the world as icons of the Hunter Valley, and set the standard for Australian wines at their best.

The Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association has formed valuable links with the University of Newcastle to collect and share historical narratives of our region’s winemaking past. Julie McIntyre from the University of Newcastle presents the notion that “wine is a creative field in which art and science combine. As O’Shea blended his wines, he blended together the idea of wine and it’s place in history”. Julie’s representation of Maurice O’Shea provides insight into Maurice O’Shea’s daily work. Describing him as one of the true romantics of wine, Julie read from a letter penned by O’Shea on 15 February 1924:

“We expect to start the grape picking on Wednesday next though at this moment it seems hardly possible for us to be ready in time … We are having some heavy downpours of rain just now and it seems that we are to expect a wet vintage. This is a nightmare to look forward to as the ground is so soddy and heavy that the loaded carts often get bogged, or even overturned, and the horses constantly lose their foothold; besides it is heavy work for the animals and knocks them up terribly. There seems to be some trouble in securing grape pickers this year. It is really unaccountable as many pits [mines] are idle and there should be more children than ever”. The account lists the hardships and tribulations that   we no longer face with modern machinery and vineyard practices – although wet harvests are still a challenge and mechanical harvesters have replaced child labour! It seems Maurice O’Shea’s romantic side didn’t end with his passion for wine. His diaries and letters have also provided a valuable account of O’Shea’s affections for Marcia Fuller, whom he later married. Maurice O’Shea on all accounts was a true romantic with the sign off from the same letter:

“My Dearest – I hope everything at home is quite satisfactory and that you are keeping your promise of looking after your dear little self so that I shall have lovely rosy cheeks and sweet red lips to kiss … Loving you more than ever – love always, Your Maurice”.

“History has made the Hunter Valley so important internationally,” said Hunter Valley Legend Brian McGuigan, “the wine that comes from here; it’s style and it’s quality has separated us from our peers in this country and abroad”. Maurice O’Shea produced remarkable and memorable wines during his lifetime, inspiring many in his industry. It is reassuring to note that many generations of the McWilliams followed in O’Shea’s footsteps. Don McWilliam, fourth generation in the McWilliams family and patron for the Maurice O’Shea Mount Pleasant Labels, joined O’Shea to learn the craft from the 1954 Vintage. Sadly, O’Shea passed away shortly after in 1956. Today, Scott McWilliam is senior winemaker at Mount Pleasant representing the sixth generation of this pioneering wine family.

Cheers for the next Century of winemaking at Mount Pleasant!

This article was published in Breathe Magazine Spring 2012, Breathe Magazine – Issue 34, Spring 2012.

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Two loves

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 25, 2011 | Leave a Comment »

Waikerie. 177km north east of Adelaide. A small country town nestled along the Murray River. Quintessentially agricultural, with extensive citrus groves and vineyards. Approximately 5000 people.

Right now there are two things in my life that come from Waikerie. Both are beautiful, close to my heart, good value and fun to have around.

The first: my mum

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Kathryn, my mum was born in Waikerie, and is absolutely priceless.

The second: 2010 Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay

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The OLE Chardy (we’re on a first name basis) is $8.99 a bottle direct from estate, $8.99 select bottle shops and $45 for six at my local IGA bottleshop (with a free apron).

Now, to be honest this is not to say my mum is cheap. In no way is she cheap. Economical, thrifty, even trashy – but not at all cheap (love you mum!)

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Nor are we cheap drinkers. We are wine industry raised. This generally means you acquire a cellar palate, and become adverse to crap wine. I was 23 before I ever tried Mateus, and I only did so I could say I’ve tried it! I’ve never participated in a game known as Goon of Fortune. I once pretended I was a non drinker to get out of drinking fruity lexia. Both sacrilege.

However, since leaving the wine industry as an occupation, I occasionally like to sample some of the offerings at the local bottle shop. I like to see how the Real people live. I avoid the boxed wine, and the dreaded Sauvignon Blanc aisle and look for Australian producers and different offerings. I take my mixed selections home and have a look, some are not great. Some are not even good. Most customers wouldn’t know or care.

For example, cleanskin, to me – can be a dirty word. Cleanskins are a favourite amongst the Real world. However I know It can mean wine fault, instability, variance, premature aging, haze, maderisation (heat stroke for wine). However, with most cleanskins it is simply because labels are expensive, bin end, ran out of labels, not up to scratch to normal brand, or went broke.

One day, whilst at the bottleshop – I found, if only by accident, the Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay.
This was fate. At $8.99 a bottle I was a little scared I had become one of the Real people. I was enjoying this wine. I was enjoying this wine a little too much and a little too often. But not over indulging – more like it had become my new favourite. At convenience and price, was I taking advantage? And I was a little embarrassed. I had racked up 3 free aprons, and I thought I had lost my wine knack. Had my flair gone? I was liking this cheap, readily accessible wine.

Then one day, a tweet revealed the truth to me.

@winsordobbin OLE Chardonnay is sensational value

Hurrah! I wasn’t going crazy. My palate remained in tact. Another wine writer (this one paid) openly shared my love for this drop.

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I had in fact found a bargain wine, of which I had no reason to be ashamed to say I liked. With reassurance, It is time to share Oxford Landings Estate Chardonnay with the world. Grab a bargain, for $8.99 it is in fact excellent value. Compared to wines of this price range and even above this price range, I am happy to say it is a safe bet: easy drinking, highly palatable and I can even say it is lovely, sound wine.

A little fruit driven, and a little oak, rounded palate and good mouth feel.
I mean it’s not an 80′s Tina Turner (big hair big shoulder pads) chardonnay. It’s not even a Jane Turner “Kath Day-Knight”: tizzy, small shoulder pads, tropical parrot earrings- styled “Cardonnay”.

This wine is contemporary, balanced, and easy drinking. It’s food friendly, gentle on the palate and is the type of Australian wine that will turn-around Chardonnay sales. The mouth feel is clean, a soft texture with subtle oak, good fruit and pleasant finish. Fresh acidity, and simple Chardonnay character – stone fruit, melon. This Chardonnay is not shy, but it’s still not going to pressure you ABC’s (Anything But Chardonnay) into anything you aren’t ready for.

So next time you want to try something different, something at a great price-point and don’t want to be disappointed – consider my cheap and not-nasty recommendation. (And I’m not talking about my mother!)

Cheers!

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Petaluma Clare Valley Hanlin Hill 2008 Riesling

Posted in Wine Knowledge, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on August 13, 2010 | 1 Comment »

I saw this in a bottle shop, and honestly I’ve been a bit fed up with Riesling lately. As you know, last month I went to the Good Food and Wine Show I tried a few Rieslings here and there. Overall, too young to be consumed without food. I found nothing where I thought, “wow thats interesting” or “the depth in that wine is stunning”. All citrusy and dull.

Statement: Petaluma Chardy is the bomb. Instantly a reliable wine.

I saw this, a Petaluma Riesling $33 in a bottle shop. I figured I would give Riesling one last try. Afterall  every palate changes, as do styles over the years.  After all – you wouldn’t be seen dead with your mothers 80′s perm today would you? But maybe our kids will “die for it”.

Maybe my relationship with Riesling is just over. Its not you its me. MY palate has changed and there is no longer room in my cellar for you. Sure, we’ll meet again from time to time – with mutal friends and at work events and functions and we’ll be polite to each other.  But it just won’t be the same. You’re back on the market, and I’ll put you back on the shelf.

But I decided that Riesling can still be a romantic at times. Not just monosyllabic like my partner can be. Just like Dave has shown me over the years, Riesling can be dual toned, deep, personal and long lasting. Hell, there are times when we can disagree but maybe its just a phase. Riesling surely couldnt be a phase?

So I grabbed it, lovingly Dave paid for it (love you), and I cracked it. Literally of course this time, because its a stelvin seal.

Lovely Golden colour. I know I’m flirting with danger here, I don’t like to cheat on Chardonnay with another intense wine unless I will be truely satisfied. And looks do matter.

The nose is subtle, yet delicate and flawless. Its a rounded bouquet with pear, slight citrus texture and lemon blossoms. Hint of spiciness follows through reminding me of cinnamon toast in the morning.

Cumquats on the palate – and not just because of the euphemism! Mixed Citrus including lemons dance all over the front of the palate. This is broadened by the breadth of acidity on offer – which I am already noticing is discipating with bottle age- but well balanced by generous fruit. There is a minerally/flinty/chalky character – but I don’t think most would notice.

This wine needs to continue to be cellared by those who could tame it!! Lie it down, and awake it when you’re ready for a full styled, generous Riesling that can steal your heart all over again.

And before the complaints set in I haven’t even said how it felt on my tongue! LOL

This wine has rejuvinated my love of Riesling. Its a pity that there are too many flowery models out there only interested in your money.

12.5% al/vol, screw cap, available in bottleshops

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Sick to Cheap: Stonegate 2008 Chardonnay

Posted in Half Full or Half Empty?, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 28, 2010 | 1 Comment »

So I went to Sydney Good Food and Wine Show – tasted many wines (yet to come on here) and came home with a shopping spree of goodies from Paddies Markets, some food showbags and the worst flu virus of all time. Seriously, “I don’t get sick” and I was Fully Sick. Down with the Sickness. So Sick. SICK SICK SICK. (In the styles of Disturbed, NE-YO and Queens of the Stone Age – with better hair).

I couldn’t taste, smell, talk, see, function. I had to go to the doctors. I don’t GO to the doctors. What is the doctors? In summary, it was the flu that felt like death. And thus, my blog had to be temporary abandoned. For this, I apologise.

Currently, I still wheeze and kind of head into losing my voice. But my nose is currently unblocked and I can TASTE. I’ll be absolutely honest and say after 7 days of being sick, I was missing my frequent intake of wine and tried to substitute this with Cointreau. Devastating.

Okay, my point… tonight my very sick mother surprised me. She bought me a present. A $2.99 bottle of Chardonnay. No Thats not a Typo. $2.99 – On Fridays apparently. Saturdays -Thursdays its still only $5.99.

I’m no wine snob. But I do have bottles in my measly collection that retail over $120 per bottle. I have purchased wines that are more expensive than most of my shoes. And OH do I LIKE Shoes. But hey – I will try anything. Some things are palateable. Mostly the barely “palatable” wines leave you with a not so palatable hangover. (Yes I am saying the quality of wine will affect your hangover.)

$2.99 is within my price range. I’m a risk taker. I’ve felt sick all week, and my palate is not yet ready to graduate so what better to right about first off the cusp?

So… Stonegate 2008 *Limited Edition* Chardonnay. South Australian. Renmark – sort of where my family come from.

I hate to be cynical…. No I lie. I love to be cynical. How limited edition can a $2.99 bottle of wine be?

Hey – its not terrible. I am so judgemental to expect it to be terrible. But in my favour it is more expensive to have a glass of Chardonnay filled to the brim at my local bowling club than to have a bottle of this in my jim jams and uggs in the privacy of my own home.

Ok… this wine actually tastes like a chardonnay. I mean, it has varietal character – stone fruits, melon and good balance. The finish is that of a $2.99 wine – fine with cleaner acidity. I believe it is slightly oaked but more likely oak chipped. But who am I to judge? Its pleasant. The fruits are all in the front and discipate quickly. But with food, most people wouldn’t even take notice.

A mild and lean wine, surpassing all expectations and very affordable (on a Friday). Would I buy it again? Hell yes. Would I cook with it? Probably. Would I drink it again? Very likely. Would I share with friends? To be honest, yes. Its perfectly acceptable and really great value.

I am now a loud and proud $2.99 bottle drinker. [Yeah I went there.]

Oh and, hopefully this week I will go through all my illegible notes and try and ‘interpretive dance’ my way through the Good Food and Wine Show experience that was 2 weeks ago.

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Facebook and De Bortoli 2009 Chardonnay

Posted in Wine Knowledge, Wine Reviews, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 15, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

I was so excited this week. I’ll get to this in a second.

I am a huge supporter of Facebook for Business marketing. I started Petersons Wines off when I worked there and it now is in the thousands in both friends and fans. Its been brilliant with lots of rewards for wine drinkers including notification of events, novelty of applications, new releases and general interaction with your favourite winery INSTANTLY.

When I started the use of Facebook I was hit with criticism. From other colleagues ( to whom I am blowing a big fat raspberry of phooey); other wineries (who ironically now also “have” to use it to remain competitive which I lOVE), from marketers and from others. But overall the response what beyond expectations, so much so other wineries and businesses followed suit. I even did some consultancy work to establish the same for other wineries. FIGJAM.

But enough on this. I WAS SO EXCITED THIS WEEK… because last week I was able to offer a winery advice on how they could increase hits to their Facebook page. They posted asking for advice from consumers and I thought… I can do this…

So I rattled off some quick (but extensive) list of what I know all about social networking marketing.

And this week I got a message from that winery saying I’d won a twin pack of wine for offering advice. I would have done it for free! So in return I’ve decided to give them a plug on my blog. (I hope they don’t mind)

I received in the post today, a bottle of Deen De Bortoli Vat 7 Chardonnay (and a Durif TBA). I believe “South Eastern Australia” is a euphemism for Griffith (Australia’s largest chunk of wine growing).  This is also obvious because De Bortoli are also known for their Noble One (very very good) and Griffith is perfect locale for growing Botrytised fruit. But could indicate anywhere else within the vicinity of South Eastern Australia.

I was provided with tasting notes but chucked these out. Wine is subjective and this is what I thought of it:

A bright, yet pale lemony straw colour without that heavy oaky colour.  An oaked Chardonnay with a nice leaness about it. Its there but if you weren’t totally looking for it you might forget you don’t drink oaked chardonnay. Its definately NOT new oak. But its got a nice rounded palate with full display of peach, and mandarin and a hint of rock melon. True varietal characters. A nice level of residual sugar remains on the palate – something sure to please the masses, and works really quite well  for this wine as its backed up by pleasant acidity.

I enjoy the complexity of the bouquet here – again Yellow Peach, almonds/nuttiness, and really reminicent of… Chardonnay. Its suffice, exactly what I would expect. Very pleasant. Enjoyable.

I ideally, would match with spicy seafood including Thai Chilli Prawns, or something with an Asian  spicy slant. Anything kind of fruity goes great with spice – and as a solid wineo, this is why I don’t totally reject fruity wines. Don’t get me wrong – its not fruity for a supermarket wine, its fruity for a cellar door wine. I also LOVE spicy foods. BUT… for me Anything Goes with Chardonnay. If I had a movie about my life, that would be the title.

13% al/vol, screw cap. http://www.debortoli.com.au/our-wines/our-brands/deen-vat-series/listing/view/deen-vat-7-chardonnay-2009.html 

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Rosey Perspectives

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 14, 2010 | 2 Comments »

Why do they plant roses at the end of each Vineyard row post?


This is a common question I recieved from customers when I was working the cellar door. There are various reasons that I know of that I will share with you.

Roses and Grape Vines tend to be very compatible:

  • Grapevines can live a long life and in some cases up to 100 years. Standard Roses can also live especially long, to several hundred years old.
  • Roses and Grapevines can suffer some the same fungi including powdery mildew.

Disease Indicator

  • Roses are often more sensitive to diseases and fungi than grapevines.
  • The common belief is that when it is noticed the Rose is being affected by powdery mildew (for example), that the viticulturalist could take this as an indication that their vineyard could also suffer from the same and they could spray.

I believe this is where the theory is at fault. Sulphur is commonly used as the spray. Sulphur can only be used as a preventative measure as it won’t “cure” powdery mildew, it can only prevent it. If by chance you notice your Rose is affected, I think it is likely it is too late for the vineyard.

Historical ‘Prick’

  • Historically, before the time of tractors and modern machinery, man used horses or mules to cart what was needed.
  • Horses and carts do not have excellent turning circles
  • Horses are not dumb animals
  • Roses are prickly

A rose at the end of the row gave the horse extra incentive to take the turn wide. If they were lazy it was easy for the cart to wipe out the last Grape Vine in the row, or snag on the wires that support the Vines. With the tall and prickly Rose, the horse knew better to turn widely as to avoid the thorns.

I also remember flicking through the South Australian family history books and seeing rose bushes at the end of rows that were more like great towering trees, very intimidating to a horse if you ask me.

Aesthetics

  • Roses are very beautiful

Due to the lifespan of the Rose in similiarity to the Grape Vine, and also that they suffer from similar diseases and the vineyard sprays will not hurt the Rose, it is an excellent plant to have to increase the aesthetics of the vineyard. They also require to be pruned the same as a Grape Vine and go into a similar state of dormancy so they aren’t an exceptionally “needy” plant.

This theory also sits well with me because every vineyard I have ever seen (oh and I’ve seen many) only had Roses planted on the row ends that are visible to the public – around carparks, tasting rooms, driveways.

Cheers!

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Chip off the Old Block?

Posted in Wine Knowledge, tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 14, 2010 | 2 Comments »

Grape vines can live a very long lifespan – Australia does boast some of the world’s oldest grape vines. This is owing to disease including phylloxera that swept through Europe in the 1800′s. There are vines still producing in South Australia that were known to be planted in the 1860′s. Thus, with tender love and care, grape vines will live longer than the average human.

I like to think of Grape vines as a lot like people.  In youth, we are rebellious, inconsistent. The older we are the more personality, concentration, and “flavour” we gain. We become middle-aged and we’ve hit our peak of productivity and perhaps become fuller bodied and less vigorous with better balance. Gradually as we head into old age we become fragile, and less fruitful. Lower yielding.

(Here come the abusive comments and emails from middle-aged people sledging me for my analogy.)

Of course some will argue it is not so much the age of the vines that produces a better crop. It’s the low yields. To put it simply – the same amount of flavour resides in 5 tonne of fruit, as does 25 tonne. It’s just the concentrations that reflect the quality and the richness of the finished wine. The smaller the crop, normally the higher the quality. Although from my experience, the more established the vines – the better the wine. But this theory doesn’t take into account weather conditions, terroir (geography of soil), varietal, level of pruning, winemaker, and many other factors.

Although the Hunter Valley has been credited as Australia’s first wine region, the original “Hunter Valley” vines were planted somewhere near the side of Gresford (up to 40 minutes away in the hinterland) and no longer exist. The Hunter Valley as we know it today was only really starting in around the 1860′s and only really started being mass planted between 1900 and 1970′s.

South Australia would be somewhere that I identify with some of the oldest producing vines in Australia. This is being threatened by the “Big Boys” of the wine industry. Because, as I stated the older the vines, the lower yielding. It is becoming ever tempting for contract growers to rip out established aged vines in order to replant fashionable varieties that will produce copious amounts more with improved trellising and better irrigation. As they are selling their crops – often for use in export or supermarket wines, and they are paid by the tonne – the more fruit they can produce the more economically viable their monoculture is.

So should we pay more for old vine wines? Well yes. I believe on the most part, wines made from older vines’ fruit are often made in “Reserve” styles. What does this mean? Well they cost more to produce than your average wine. New oak, barriques versus oak chips, different techniques, super yeasts, expensive packaging… the list goes on. And thus for most of us $40> wines are not everyday quaffers!

If there is an ongoing Market for the Back Blocks, the Old Blocks, the Graveyards, and the Hill of Grace, “styles” of wines, less aged vines will be uplifted for fickle market trends such as Sauvignon Blanc (here she upsets the masses again!)

I believe part of Australia’s credibility on the world wine market also comes from our ability to produce wines of this calibre and it is important to protect our industry.

But of course my only rule of wine is to drink what you like. If you like Sauvignon Blanc – by all means drink Australian. If you have a special occasion and you love aged vine Shiraz, by all means spend your hard-earned cash and savour every mouthfeel.

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